e head men of the districts, the
cotters themselves. Every Irishman, whatever his politics, will
readily agree that Mr. Balfour knows more about Ireland than any
Englishman living, and most of them credit him with more knowledge of
the subject than any Irishman. My thorough-going friend, Mr. McCoy, of
Galway, hater of England, avowed Separatist, longing to wallow in the
brutal Saxon's gore, thinks Mr. Balfour the best friend that Ireland
ever had. "I'd agree with you there," said Mr. McCoy. "I don't agree
with charity, but I agree with putting people in a way to do things
for themselves, which is what Mr. Balfour has done."

Back on the ice-hulk by favour of Thomas Joyce, of Kilronane, skipper
and owner of a fishing smack. Mr. William Fitzgerald showed the
factory, the great hold with the ice, the windmill which pumps the
hulk, the mountains of boxes for fish, the mackerel in process of
packing, sixty in a box, most of them very large fish. An unhappy
halibut, which had come to an untimely end, stood on his tail in a
narrow basket, his mouth wide open, looking like a Home Rule orator
descanting on the woes of Ireland. He was slapped into a box and
instantly nailed down, which summary process suggested an obvious
wish.

Mr. Fitzgerald said: "The fisheries have been a great success, and
have done much good. The spring fishery paid well on account of the
great price we got for the mackerel. It is not customary to catch fish
so early, but when you can do it it pays splendidly. Just now the
price is not up to the mark, but we hope for better times. The Arklow
men are not subsidised this year. They didn't need it. The ground
proved productive, and they were glad to come on their own hook. If
they had required a second subsidy they would not have got it."

"Why not?"

"I'm no politician," said Mr. Fitzgerald. "The Araners are so strong
and hardy that they would surprise you. They will stand all day on the
ice, with nothing on but those pampooties, and you would think they'd
need iron soles, instead of a bit of skin. They work hard, and come
regularly and give no trouble. No, I could not find any fault with
them. They mostly speak Irish among themselves. It's Greek to me, but
I can make out that they think a great deal of Mr. Balfour."

A week on the hulk would be refreshing, for on one side there is no
land nearer than America. However, I have to go, for the Duras is
getting uneasy, so I leave the hulk, the mackerel, the