s
breath."_

The road to Kenmare lies high above the sea. Ardgroom is hiding under
the Caha mountains, with Glenbeg Lake behind, in the little valley.
Beneath Derrenamackan the lashing seas wage perpetual warfare against
the rocks. By the Eskdhu, or Blackwater Bridge, amid the dense foliage
of the trees, a waterfall bleats from the thicket with plaintive murmur.
Then it breaks itself free, and amid rocks, and briars, and tangled
underwood, rushes wildly towards the sea. Between us and the ocean is
Dromore Castle, the residence of one of the heads of a sept of the
O'Mahony clan. In the demesne are the ruins of Cappacross, a stronghold
of the O'Sullivans. Dunkerron Castle, on the shore, gives its name to
the islands in the bay.

[Illustration]

County Clare.

[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Dromoland Castle.]

[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Ennistymon.]

[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lisdoonvarna Spa.]

[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Kilkee.]

[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Amphitheatre at Kilkee.]

[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Look-out Cliff, Kilkee.]

[Illustration: Golfing at Lahinch]

[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Golfing, Lahinch.]

Clare County possesses the finest cliff scenery in Ireland. From
Limerick or Galway the county may be explored. On the journey by rail
from Limerick, beyond Long Pavement, we come on a fine view of Cratloe
woods. An ancient saint referred to Cratloe as "a pleasant seclusion
from sin"; but in later times it became a haunt of rapparees, and its
thick foliage provided what Spenser would call "a meet house for
rebels." In later times Freney, a noted highwayman, whose exploits
delighted the Irish peasant, here found a refuge. Bunratty Castle was a
strong place in feudal times. Here Rinuccini, the Papal Legate to
Ireland in 1641, sojourned, and his papers contain many references to
the picturesqueness of the surrounding country, and its herds of wild
deer. Between Newmarket and Ardsollus is Dromoland, the seat of Lord
Inchiquin, and the birthplace of William Smith O'Brien, the aristocratic
leader of the revolutionists of 1848. Crossing the Ardsollus river, we
are near Quin Abbey, an old Franciscan Priory, and Clare Castle, which
took its name from an old watch tower in the river Fergus. ~Ennis~ is
the chief town in the County Clare. It is more quaint than important. It
is pleasantly placed on