Pyrenees--clinging to the mountain side, at
a height of several hundred feet above the sea, with here a cutting or
embankment, and there a mountain gorge, in which a lovely waterfall is
almost lost to sight in a labyrinth of foliage.
~Mountain Stage~ and ~Kells~ are passed, and the train glides down an
incline to Cahirciveen and Valentia Harbour. ~Cahirciveen~, the
birthplace of Daniel O'Connell, is the most westerly town in the three
kingdoms. It lies with its back up against the Iveragh Mountains, and
facing the blue waters of Dingle Bay. Only since the road was cut across
the hills to Valentia in later years has it come to be of importance. In
1803 there were only fifteen houses here, and the beginning of its
uprise in the world was when O'Connell got it made a market town. But in
legends of the past it is a place of fame, and received its name from
Sive, one of the beautiful daughters of the great monarch, Owen More.
~Carhan House~, where the Liberator spent his childhood (but was not
actually born, as alleged), the ruins of which now only remain, may be
seen a short distance outside the town.
[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ On the Coast near Glenbeigh.]
Two charming fishing harbours under Knocktubber Mountain are worth
seeing, Councroum, "the Haven's Bend," and Coonana, which is called
after the woman who bore the great Finn. Here, the mighty fighter of the
old days, "Conn of the Hundred Battles," fought no less than thirteen of
his fields, and three pre-historic forts remain to bear testimony to the
past--Cahir-na-cahal, Cahirgal, and Castlequinn.
[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Glenbeigh.]
[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lake Coomasaharn.]
[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cahirciveen.]
Ballycarbery's ruined castle, too, deserves attention. In ancient times
it was the fortress of Carbery O'Shea, whose tide-swept tomb is still to
be seen. Then it passed into the hands of Owen More's descendants, and
from them to the O'Connells. When the Spaniards sent their "ale" over to
Erin, and the Kerry women borrowed one another's cloaks to go to Spain
to sell eggs and dulisc, Ballycarbery, commanding the harbour's mouth,
was a place frequented by mariners and merchantmen from many a Spanish
port. There is a story of Morgan of the Wine and a Spanish Captain worth
re-telling. Two O'Connells lived in Ballycarbery together, one brother,
Shawn, occupying the lower portion, and
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