hought that the
man standing before a burning lamp might be a fire-worshipper, in which
case the seal would be Persian. I _incline_, however, to think that it
may be an Egyptian seal. I believe that each symbol is one of the
common forms on Egyptian monuments; this can be determined by one
versed in Egyptian hieroglyphics." Since my arrival here I have
submitted the seal to Sir Henry Rawlinson. The fact of its having been
dug up in the Panjkhora Valley adds great interest to the relic.

On the 24th we left for Kumbar. Whilst here it got abroad that my
friend Hosein Shah was accompanied by two Europeans in disguise. The
originator of this report was no other than Rahat Shah Meah, a native
in the confidence of our Indian Government, and enjoying the benefits
of a _jagir_ or grant of land in the district of Nowshera, given him
for loyal services, but a sworn enemy of my two friends. He had sent
letters to Asmar, Chitral, Swat, and Bijour, urging on the people to
track out the Kafirs who were in company with the Meagans, and destroy
them, as they could have gone with no other purpose than to spy out the
land. Shao Baba took up the matter, and not until the Dir chief had
written contradicting the statement and certifying that he had asked my
companions to bring from India a hakim, were suspicions allayed.
Unfortunately, in a country like Afghanistan, where fanaticism is so
rampant, once let it be even surmised that outsiders, and these the
detested Kafirs, are about, the bare contradiction does not suffice,
and the original idea only lies dormant, as our future progress showed.

Two marches took us from Kumbar (elevation 4,420 feet) to Dir (5,650
feet). Crossed _en route_ the Barawal range; height of the pass is
8,340 feet, by a very fair road, which can be ridden up. Here our party
was joined by the Dir chief, who having settled his disputes, was
proceeding to his capital.

The fort of Dir is of stone, but in decay; it has an ancient aspect,
but this applies still more to the village of Ariankot, which occupies
the flat top of a low spur detached from the fort by a small stream.
The spurs fall in perpendicular cliffs of some 20 feet in height, and
in these are traces of numerous caves similar to those already spoken
of, and some of which are still used as dwellings by the Balti people,
who come to take service as porters between Dir and Chitral. The
population of the fort and valley exceeds 6,000 souls.

Four more days