the night under
some rocks. All beyond was snow, interminable snow. Starting at midnight
for the head of the pass (the difference in elevation between our
night's encampment and the crest was 7,000 feet) it took us an hour to
do every thousand perpendicular feet. The view on the Kotal as the sun
was rising was a sight never to be forgotten; near and around us the
hills clad in white with different tinges of red showing, and clouds
rising in fantastic shapes, and disclosing to view the blue and purple
of the distant and lower ranges. I was very fortunate in having a clear
morning, as it enabled me to bring my plane-table into great use. As the
descent was very tedious, owing to the upper crust of the snow having
melted under the rays of the morning sun, we decided on adopting a
sort of "tobogging" system by sitting ourselves on the snow, raising
the feet, at the same time giving the body a reclining position; a
jerk, and then we were off, following in each other's wake, bringing
ourselves up every now and again by embedding our feet in the snow.
By this means we got down almost to the base of the hill in a very
short time, and on arriving at the Ludhe villages were well received.

Going out was abandoned, but whilst thus inactive so far as going
about went, my time was spent in examining closely into their manners
and customs, when an urgent message was brought from the Aman ul
Mulk, desiring me to return immediately, owing to some unfavourable
news that was abroad. Thinking of my two friends, whom I had left at
Chitral, being involved in some difficulties, I hurried back, only to
learn that the chief had sent for me on the paltry excuse of having
heard that the chief of Asmar and the Kafirs had begun their annual
quarrels. So once again was another opportunity of penetrating further
frustrated. During my absence on this trip that arch-fiend Rahat Shah
had arrived at Chitral from India. As he has quite the ear of the
ruler, all further chances of our getting on in the may of exploring
were at an end, and so we decided on returning to India _via_ Kashmir.
In return for the presents we had given Aman ul Mulk when we first
arrived at Chitral, he gave us others, and immediately threw every
obstacle in his power to prevent our getting away, and it was only on
refusing to accept his presents that we were supplied with carriers.

Starting on the 5th of June, on the fourth day we arrived at Drasan
(6,637 feet). The fort of Dra