ras sappers would in a few
hours clear all difficulties sufficiently well to allow a mule battery
to keep up with infantry. When once in the plains this state of things
changes; where previously one had to avoid loose rocks and boulders, we
had now to search for a dry spot on which to alight. Both banks of the
rivers are irrigated; the soil is very rich, and well adapted for rice
cultivation. The valley has the reputation of being very unhealthy,
owing, I have no doubt, to the effluvia arising from the damp soil. A
Swatie is easily recognised by the sallow appearance he presents--a
striking contrast to his nearest neighbours.

The Swat river is about 50 feet wide, from three to four deep, and
flush with its banks. We crossed over in _jalas_ (_i.e._ inflated
skins) opposite the large village of Chakdara; the loads were taken
off, and our animals forded the stream with little or no difficulty.
Almost due north of our crossing, and distant eight miles, lay the
village of Kotigram. The valley, known as the Unch Plain, is somewhat
open, narrowing as we neared the village. Midway, about Uncha, we
passed several topes, or Buddhist remains. These topes are very
numerous, at least twenty were visible at one time, and some of great
size and in a very good state of preservation--more than one quite as
large as the famous tope of Mani Kiyala. A little further up the valley
towards the Katgola Pass, to the left of our route, there were numerous
excavated caves, in the side of the hill, in one of which the traveller
could take shelter during a passing shower. The assent to the Laram
Kotal is easy, and though the south face of this range is somewhat
denuded of both fir and pine, yet the soil is sufficiently rich to
allow of cultivation on its slopes. On this pass, whilst taking some
plane-table observations, I was within an ace of being detected from an
unexpected quarter. Four men armed with matchlocks showed themselves.
Much quicker than it takes me to record it, the rule or sight vane was
run up my long and open sleeve, and I began to pretend to be looking
about for stray roots; the intruders were thrown off the scent, and
after a while assisted the Saiad in looking for odd roots for the
supposed native doctor.

The descent from the pass, which registered 7,310 feet, to Killa Rabat
(3,900 feet) in the Panjkhora Valley, was for the first half of the
distance by a long and densely wooded spur, within an easy slope, but
on nearing t