t there since
they were in the island. It is the British consulate now. There, next to
it, is the consul's residence."

It was a handsome house, just below the fort, and surrounded by lovely
gardens. But down beneath it, on the shore, was the most interesting
place to the newcomer, the town of Tamsui proper, or Ho Be, as the
Chinese called it. The foreigners landed and made their way up the
street. To the two from south Formosa, Tamsui was like every other small
Chinese town, but Mackay had not yet become accustomed to the strange
sights and sounds and stranger smells, and his bright eyes were keen
with interest.

The main thoroughfare wound this way and that, only seven or eight feet
wide at its best. It was filled with noisy crowds of men who acted as if
they were on the verge of a terrible fight. But the older missionaries
knew that they were merely acting as Chinese crowds always do. On each
side were shops,--tea shops, rice shops, tobacco shops, and many other
kinds. And most numerous of all were the shops where opium, one of the
greatest curses of Chinese life, was sold. The front wall of each was
removed, and the customers stood in the street and dickered with the
shopkeeper, while at the top of his harsh voice the latter swore by
all the gods in China that he was giving the article away at a terrific
loss. Through the crowd pushed hawkers, carrying their wares balanced
on poles across their shoulders. Boys with trays of Chinese candies and
sugar-cane yelled their wares above the din. The visitors stumbled
along over the rough stones of the pavement until they came to the
market-place. Foreigners were not such a curiosity in Tamsui as in the
inland towns, and not a great deal of notice was taken of them, but
occasionally Mackay could hear the now familiar words of contempt
--"Ugly barbarian"--"Foreign devil" from the men that passed them. And
one man, pointing to Mackay, shouted "Ho! the black-bearded barbarian!"
It was a name the young missionary was destined to hear very frequently.
Past opium-dens, barber shops, and drug stores they went and through the
noise and bustle and din of the market-place. They knew that the inns,
judging by the outside, would be filthy, so Mr. Ritchie suggested, as
evening was approaching, that they find some comfortable place to spend
the night.

There was a British merchant in Tamsui named Mr. Dodd, whom the
missionaries knew. So to him they went, and were given fine quarters in