ign devil out if at all possible. So Mackay found
himself meeting every kind of opposition. He was too independent to ask
assistance from the British consul in the old Dutch fort on the bluff,
or of any other European settlers in Tamsui. He was bound to make
his own way. But it was not easy to do so in view of the forces which
opposed him. He had now been in Formosa about two months and had studied
the Chinese language every waking hour, but it was very difficult, and
he found his usually ready tongue wofully handicapped.

His first concern was to get a dwelling-place, and he went from house to
house inquiring for some place to rent. Everywhere he went he was turned
away with rough abuse, and occasionally the dogs were set upon him.

But at last he was successful. Up on the bank of the river, a little way
from the edge of the town, he found a place which the owner condescended
to rent. It was a miserable little hut, half house, half cellar,
built into the side of the hill facing the river. A military officer had
intended it for his horse-stable, and yet Mackay paid for this hovel the
sum of fifteen dollars a month. It had three rooms, one without a floor.
The road ran past the door, and a few feet beyond was the river. By
spending money rather liberally he managed to hire the coolie who had
accompanied him to south Formosa. With his servant's help Mackay had his
new establishment thoroughly cleaned and whitewashed, and then he moved
in his furniture. He laughed as he called it furniture, for it consisted
of but two packing boxes full of books and clothing. But more came
later. The British consul, Mr. Frater, lent him a chair and a bed. There
was one old Chinese, who kept a shop near by, and who seemed inclined to
be friendly to the queer barbarian with the black beard. He presented
him with an old pewter lamp, and the house was furnished complete.

Mackay sat down at his one table, the first night after he was settled.
The damp air was hot and heavy, and swarms of tormenting mosquitoes
filled the room. Through the open door came the murmur of the river, and
from far down in the village the sounds of harsh, clamorous voices. He
was alone, many, many miles from home and friends. Around him on every
side were bitter enemies.

One might have supposed he would be overcome at the thought of the
stupendous task before him, but whoever supposed that did not know
George Mackay. He lighted his pewter lamp, opened his diary, and