wo hours, and a drive of nearly fifty miles, we alighted before a
Lapp tent. The dogs, and there were many, announced our arrival by
fierce barking, and the inmates of the tent came out to see who the
strangers were. They recognized my friends and received them with
demonstrations of joy, which was the more remarkable as the Lapps are
far from being demonstrative.

The next day in the afternoon we returned to our tent, the reindeer as
frisky as the day before and running as fast. I have never forgotten
those two glorious rides, and I shall remember them as long as I live.

Bidding my Lapp friends good-bye I came one day to Lake Givijaervi and
further on to Lake Aitijaervi. There I saw a lonely farm with a
comfortable dwelling-house of logs. How pleasant this habitation seemed
in that snow land. The smoke curling over the chimney told that there
were people there, and soon after we were in front of the house, and I
entered a large room, and saw a man with long black shaggy hair tinged
with grey. His name was Adam Triump. Then a woman, his wife, came in,
also with loose shaggy black hair falling over her shoulders. My guide
and I were made welcome.

From there I travelled once more eastward, driving over the Ivalajoki,
which falls into the Enarejaervi. If I had been travelling alone I should
certainly have perished, for I did not know where to find the people of
the thinly inhabited country.

CHAPTER XX

THE LAPP HAMLET OF KAUTOKEINO.--A BATH IN A BIG IRON POT.--AN ARCTIC WAY
OF WASHING CLOTHES.--DRESS AND ORNAMENTS OF THE LAPPS.--APPEARANCE
AND HEIGHT OF THE LAPPS.--GIVIJAeRVI.--KARASJOK.

A few days after the events I have just related to you, I found myself
in the Lapp hamlet of Kautokeino, with its Lutheran church, near
latitude 69 degrees. Here and there were queer-looking storehouses which
belonged to the nomadic Lapps. I alighted before the post station, and
entered the house and was welcomed by the station master. The dwelling
was composed of two rooms, one for the use of the family, the other for
guests or travellers. The place was full of Lapp men and women who had
come to rest, go to church on the following Sunday, or see their
children who were at school; or to get coffee, sugar, and other
provisions stored in their own houses.

On the opposite side of the post station was the cow house, and between
it and the house was the old-fashioned wooden-bucket well with its long,
swinging pol