ki. Near
Utsjoki I met some nomadic Lapps, who had a large herd of reindeer with
them, and were willing to take me to Nordkyn. That night I slept in
their tent. Early the next morning they lassoed some very fine reindeer,
which had superb horns and had not been used for quite a while. I did
not care now how fast the reindeer went, for I could keep inside of my
sleigh. The men said: "We will meet on the promontory Lapps with their
reindeer herds, and if it is very stormy we can go into their tent."

Soon after we started.

They were not mistaken in regard to the speed of their beasts. They set
off at a furious pace, and it was all I could do to keep inside of my
sleigh. My pride was up, and I was bound to do my utmost not to upset.

We finally reached the high promontory which divides the Laxe from the
Tana fjord, at the extremity of which is Nordkyn. It was blowing a gale
right from the north, and we had to protect our faces with our masks.
Fortunately we came to a Lapp encampment, and were received with great
kindness and hospitality; enjoyed a good meal of reindeer meat, and a
good sleep afterwards.

The next morning the weather was fine, and I drove on to Kjorgosk
Njarg--hard name to pronounce--the most northern land in Europe.

The land's end was nearing, and erelong I stood on the edge of Cape
Nordkyn, 71 deg. 6' 50"--the most northern end of the continent of Europe,
and rising majestically over seven hundred feet above the level of the
sea. Before me was the Arctic Ocean, and beyond, a long way off and
unseen by me, was the impenetrable wall of ice which the Long Night had
built to guard the Pole.

From there I could see North Cape.

CHAPTER XXII

LEAVE NORDKYN.--FRANTIC EFFORTS OF THE REINDEER TO KEEP THEIR FOOTING
ON THE ICE.--THE BEAR'S NIGHT.--FOXES AND ERMINES.--WEIRD CRIES OF
FOXES.--BUILDING SNOW HOUSES.--SHOOTING-BOXES.--KILLING FOXES.--TRAPS
FOR ERMINES.--A SNOW OWL.

Nordkyn being the land's end, I could not go further north, so I
retraced my steps southward. That afternoon we saw on the other side of
a frozen lakelet the tent of some nomadic Lapps, and we made
preparations to cross the lake to go and see them.

While we were in the midst of the lake the wind rose, and before we knew
it the ice was left bare around us, and our reindeer could not run or
walk over it, it was so slippery. They would fall at every step they
made, making all kinds of contortions to try to s