rch, the Cardinals as so many saints, abuses as principles, and to
applaud the march of the Government, even though it stand still. It is
considered good taste to praise the virtues of the lower orders, their
simple faith, and their indifference as to political affairs, and to
despise that middle-class which is destined to bring about the next
revolution.

I conversed much with some of the foreigners who live in Rome, and who
mix with its best society. One of the most distinguished and the most
agreeable of them often gave me advice which, though I have not
followed, I have not forgotten.

"My dear friend," he used to say,

"I know but two ways of writing about Rome. You must choose
for yourself. If you declaim against the priestly
government, its abuses, vices, and injustice; against the
assassinations, the uncultivated lands, the bad air, the
filthiness of the streets; against the many scandals, the
hypocrisies, the robberies, the lotteries, the Ghetto, and
all that follows as a matter of course, you will earn the
somewhat barren honour of having added the thousand and
first pamphlet to those which have appeared since the time
of Luther. All has been said that can be said against the
Popes. A man who pretends to originality should not lend his
voice to the chorus of brawling reformers. Remember, too,
that the Government of this country, though very mild and
very paternal, never forgives! Even if it wished to do so,
it cannot. It must defend its principle, which is sacred.
Don't close the gates of Rome against yourself. You will be
so glad to revisit it, and we shall be so happy to receive
you again! If you wish to support a new and original theme,
and to gain fame which will not be wholly unprofitable, dare
to declare boldly that everything is good--even that which
all agree to pronounce bad. Praise without restriction an
order of things which has been solidly maintained for
eighteen centuries. Prove that everything here is firmly
established, and that the network of pontifical institutions
is linked together by a powerful logic. Bravely resist those
aspirations after reform which may haply urge you to demand
such and such changes. Remember that you cannot disturb old
constitutions with impunity; that the displacement of a
single stone may bring down the whole edifice. H