pt to the valley
flat, but an old trail turned to the right and climbed the north bank
by an easy and graceful grade which it was a joy to follow. The top
of the bench was wooded and grassy, and the smooth brown trail wound
away sinuous as a serpent under the splendid pine trees. For more
than three hours we strolled along this bank as distinguished as
those who occupy boxes at the theatre. Below us the Blackwater looped
away under a sunny sky, and far beyond, enormous and unnamed, deep
blue mountains rose, notching the western sky. The scene was so
exceedingly rich and amiable we could hardly believe it to be
without farms and villages, yet only an Indian hut or two gave
indication of human life.

After following this bank for a few miles, we turned to the right and
began to climb the high divide which lies between the Blackwater and
the Muddy, both of which are upper waters of the Fraser. Like all the
high country through which we had passed this ridge was covered with
a monotonous forest of small black pines, with very little bird or
animal life of any kind. By contrast the valley of the Blackwater
shone in our memory like a jewel.

After a hard drive we camped beside a small creek, together with
several other outfits. One of them belonged to a doctor from the
Chilcoten country. He was one of those Englishmen who are natural
plainsmen. He was always calm, cheerful, and self-contained. He took
all worry and danger as a matter of course, and did not attempt to
carry the customs of a London hotel into the camp. When an Englishman
has this temper, he makes one of the best campaigners in the world.

As I came to meet the other men on the trail, I found that some
peculiar circumstance had led to their choice of route. The doctor
had a ranch in the valley of the Fraser. One of "the Manchester boys"
had a cousin near Soda Creek. "Siwash Charley" wished to prospect on
the head-waters of the Skeena; and so in almost every case some
special excuse was given. When the truth was known, the love of
adventure had led all of us to take the telegraph route. Most of the
miners argued that they could make their entrance by horse as
cheaply, if not as quickly, as by boat. For the most part they were
young, hardy, and temperate young men of the middle condition of
American life.

One of the Manchester men had been a farmer in Connecticut, an
attendant in an insane asylum in Massachusetts, and an engineer. He
was fat when he started