danger of being set on
fire, but I preferred sleeping there to sleeping on the floor inside
the boat, where the reek of tobacco smoke was sickening.

When I awoke we were driving straight up Tagish Lake, a beautiful,
clear, green and blue spread of rippling water with lofty and boldly
outlined peaks on each side. The lake ran from southeast to northwest
and was much larger than any map shows. We drove steadily for ten
hours up this magnificent water with ever increasing splendor of
scenery, arriving about sunset at Taku City, which we found to be a
little group of tents at the head of Taku arm.

Innumerable boats of every design fringed the shore. Men were coming
and men were going, producing a bewildering clash of opinions with
respect to the value of the mines. A few of these to whom we spoke
said, "It's all a fake," and others were equally certain it was "All
right."

A short portage was necessary to reach Atlin Lake, and taking a part
of our baggage upon our shoulders we hired the remainder packed on
horses and within an hour were moving up the smooth path under the
small black pines, across the low ridge which separates the two
lakes. At the top of this ridge we were able to look out over the
magnificent spread of Atlin Lake, which was more beautiful in every
way than Tagish or Taku. It is, in fact, one of the most beautiful
lakes I have ever seen.

Far to the southeast it spread until it was lost to view among the
bases of the gigantic glacier-laden mountains of the coast range. To
the left--that is to the north--it seemed to divide, enclosing a
splendid dome-shaped solitary mountain, one fork moving to the east,
the other to the west. Its end could not be determined by the eye in
either direction. Its width was approximately about ten miles.

At the end of the trail we found an enterprising Canadian with a
naphtha launch ready to ferry us across to Atlin City, but were
forced to wait for some one who had gone back to Taku for a second
load.

While we were waiting, the engineer, who was a round-faced and rather
green boy, fell under the influences of a large, plump, and very
talkative lady who made the portage just behind us. She so absorbed
and fascinated the lad that he let the engine run itself into some
cramp of piston or wheel. There was a sudden crunching sound and the
propeller stopped. The boy minimized the accident, but the captain
upon arrival told us it would be necessary to unload from the boat