t gone, and the coolies had burnt their last
joss sticks; so I took farewell of the kindly monks of Chin Tien and
started down the mountain. The sun shone as we set off, but as we
descended, the clouds gathered and the rain fell in torrents. Each
steep, straight staircase was a snare to our feet. Sprawling and
slithering we made our way down. No one escaped, and the woods resounded
with gay cries, "Have a care, Omi to fo! Hold on tight, Omi to fo! Now,
go ahead, Omi to fo!" There was no going slowly, you stood still or went
with a rush. Women tottering along on crippled feet pointed cheerily at
my big shoes. I dare say the difference in size consoled them for all
their aches and pains.

It was almost dark when we reached Omei-hsien, soaked to the skin. I had
a big fire made for the coolies and we all gathered round in
companionable fashion for the last time. The return journey the next day
across the plain was as charming as ever, but the steamy heat of the low
level was very depressing, and we were all glad to take to a boat for
the last twenty-two li.

I had one more day in Chia-ting, visiting one or two temples and making
the last arrangements for the trip down the river to Chung-king. Wisely
helped by one of the American missionaries I secured a very comfortable
wu-pan, for which I paid twenty-five dollars Mexican. It was well fitted
out, and equipped with a crew of seven, including the captain's wife,
and a small dog known as the "tailless one." We started down the river
late in the afternoon. There was just time for one look at the Great
Buddha as the current hurled us almost under his feet, then a last
glance at the beautiful town, all rose and green, and a wonderful
chapter in my journeying had come to an end. Only three months later and
Chia-ting was aflame with the fires of revolution, for it was the first
city in all Szechuan to declare for the Republic, and there was many a
fierce contest in its narrow, winding streets.

CHAPTER X

DOWN THE YANGTSE

After the toilsome life of the last three months it was good to look
forward to ten days or so of laziness, for surely river travel may be
the most luxurious of any sort of journeying, and even a humble native
boat on the Yangtse affords many delights. You make yourself comfortable
with your own bed and chair, stop at your pleasure, go as you choose,
without hurry and without noise through charmingly varied scenery, now
soft and cultivated, now wild