suitable better than the Russian.

Passing out of the little Russian trading settlement, like nothing so
much as a thriving, hideous Western village, we drove through the main
street of the Mongolian quarter, where all the life of Lama-town seemed
to have drifted, for the gaiety and colour were intoxicating. Half an
hour took us away from the river and into the hills. The track was rough
and boggy and often blocked by interminable trains of bullock carts
laden with logs or dressed lumber, Urga's important exports. Toward the
end of the day the way became steeper and wilder, ascending between
slopes well wooded with spruce and pine and larch and birch. It was a
joy to be in a real forest again. The flowers that grew in great
profusion were more beautiful than any I had seen before in North
Mongolia, especially the wonderful masses of wild larkspur of a blue so
intense that it dazzled the eyes.

A storm was gathering and we pushed on as fast as we could; but the road
was too rough for speed and we were a long way from our camping-place
when a tremendous downpour burst upon us, and in the twinkling of an eye
our path was a rushing mountain torrent. Dry under my tarpaulin I could
enjoy the scene, splendid masses of blue-black clouds shot with vivid
flashes of lightning that served only to show the badness of the way and
the emptiness of the country. I will say for Ivan, the tarantass driver,
that he knew his business and kept the horses on their feet and in the
road better than most men could have done.

We drove on until nine, when the driver declared he could go no farther,
and proceeded to make camp by the roadside, not far from a couple of
yurts. A light shone out, and there was the sound of angry voices and
wrangling, but I could not find out what was the matter. Nicolai's
German always gave out, as the Indian babu said his presence of mind
did, "in the nick of time." Finally, the Russians sulkily turned their
horses loose and set up the little shelter tent where the three men were
to sleep. Apparently there was no fuel to be had, and we all went
supper-less to bed.

My first night in a tarantass was very comfortable. The body of the
cart, made soft with rugs and sheepskins, was long enough for me to
stretch out at full length if I lay cornerwise, and the hood protected
me against rain and wind. When I waked in the morning the whole land was
drenched, but the sun shone brilliantly. I started out on my own account