o the west, another in the distance to the east, the two extending
almost parallel towards the south, where the gap in the horizon line
between these ranges was filled by a very distant range showing a conical
peak, and to the west of this another in the shape of a dome. It was the
grandeur of these panoramas that impressed one most, rather than their
monotonous beauty.

All the outlines of the scenery of Central Brazil had, so to speak, been
worn smooth by the erosive action of water and wind, so that no
fantastically shaped mountains had yet been encountered, no landscape
which some great commotion had rendered strangely picturesque. There,
only the steady work of uncountable ages showed itself in a most
impressive way to those who understood. From a striking pictorial point
of view very little remained in one's mind of those wonderful scenes
after one had turned one's head away, except, perhaps, their immensity
and the deep green tones--the two salient points of the scenery.

When we had descended from the pass (elev. 1,650 ft.) we came to the Rio
Tres de Majo, where a hamlet of three sheds was found. Twenty-eight
kilometres from our last camp we arrived at the Rio Rancheria, where
stood a miserable farm. Both those streams, at an elevation of 1,300 ft.,
flowed into the Rio Claro to the north.

We had the misfortune of halting near the farmhouse, and suffered
tortures from the millions of mosquitoes, gnats, carrapatos and
carrapatinhos which made that night almost unbearable. I invariably found
that carrapatos and carrapatinhos were more plentiful where living people
or animals were to be found. Near those dirty farmhouses we were simply
swarming all over with them. My poor animals, owing to the long marches
we had been making, and the terrible pack-saddles, had sore backs and
loins, sore chests. Yet we could not stop, and the poor things must stand
the pain and strain.

CHAPTER X

Fishing--Termites--The Great Araguaya River

AN amusing incident happened. A cow chewed up the coat of one of my men,
which was lying on the ground. In his fury the owner of the coat, on
discovering the misdeed, seized his carbine and fired four shots at the
cow and four at the farmhouse. None of us could tell where the bullets
went. The cow, startled by the shots, gave a few jumps and kicks, then,
absolutely uninjured, peacefully continued grazing. The house too
remained untouched. Amazing shots my men were!

Across a