ld also have disappeared, and we should have had to trust
to our purses to replenish our supply.

Smith was an old campaigner in these regions, and cheeked our
generosity, by giving us a few words of advice, which we afterwards
found were correct.

On we went, the road growing worse and worse as we advanced, and as the
wheels sunk into the deep ruts, I thought the wagon would be shattered
to pieces in the struggle to extricate it. Dozens of teams were stuck,
and despite the yells and curses of the drivers, the tired cattle
refused to move.

Smith's oxen, the freshest and strongest we had seen on the road, were
often borrowed to give distressed teamsters a lift, so that our progress
was rather slow; and it was not until five o'clock that we entered the
town of Ballarat, and passed along the main street, which was graced
with huts and tents of rough boards, on each side.

On we went, passing the "Melbourne Saloon," the "Sydney Saloon," the
"London Hotel," the "American Hotel," the "Californians' Retreat," and
numbers of other tents, decorated with huge letters of black paint, and
all setting forth the peculiar merits which each offered to the weary
traveller.

At one place, we were told that real London porter could be obtained for
ten shillings per bottle; and at another, that XX ale was selling for
only one shilling per glass.

Signs innumerable greeted our eyes. Doctors, who informed the public
that their charges were only one pound per visit, cash in advance to
save trouble; carpenters, who offered to build houses at the cheapest
rate; carriers, willing to freight goods to any part of Australia, and
would not guarantee a safe delivery--all these were passed by without
attracting any attention, although the scene was one of novelty and
excitement to us.

We gained a portion of the town that was comparatively clear of tents,
and near a stream of water. Here Smith thought we had better stop; and
tired, and perhaps homesick, we pitched our tent, and ate our first
supper at the mines of Ballarat.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

THE BULLY OF BALLARAT.--FRED FIGHTS A DUEL.

Horse stealing is not regarded as a very serious crime, I regret to say,
in Australia. There is a certain class of people who make no scruple of
borrowing an animal without the owner's consent, and if great objection
is made to such a proceeding, a resort to firearms quickly settles the
matter, generally to the disadvantage of the remonstrant.

Th