and covered with fine mats. In the
centre of the house the main pole stands like a tall mast, with
several cross-bars where the furniture--rolls of mats and _tapa_,
_kava_ bowls and cups--is kept. There is nothing else in the room,
except, perhaps, one or two camphor-wood chests. The centre pole in
the house at Vaiee was wound round and about with ropes of frangipani
flowers, while bright red hibiscus bells decorated the cross bars, and
ferns in long wreaths were looped round the edge of the room. The
eaves come down pretty low, about four feet from the ground, so that
one has to stoop to enter.

"After receiving us with great cordiality, making us comfortable with
fans, etc., the girls joined us as we sat stiffly in a semi-circle,
waiting for the chief--for we knew our Samoan manners. Presently we
saw him coming, dressed very plainly in a kilt of _tapa_ and carrying
the high chief fly flapper.[63] He was accompanied by his talking man,
with his tall staff of office, and several of the lesser house
chiefs--all looking very important and impressive. After shaking hands
with us (which is not a Samoan custom and always spoils the dignity of
a fine entrance), they sat in a semi-circle facing us. Then the
talking man drew a long breath and started in. Samoan talking men, or
_tulafale_, are noted for their eloquence, but it is the wearisome
part of a _malaga_ to have to listen to hours of high-flown discourse.
At last, however, with a final burst of oratory, our relief came, and
then the _taupo_ made and served the _kava_. In later years the
Samoans learned to grate the root for brewing, but on that occasion it
was prepared in the good old-fashioned island way. The _taupo_ and her
girls first washed their mouths out several times with fresh water and
then chewed the roots--nibbled them, rather, very daintily--until
there was enough for a brew. This was put in the middle of a huge
wooden bowl (shallow and with eight short legs, all carved out of one
piece of wood), and water was poured over it. The _taupo_,[64] very
self-conscious, sitting cross-legged before the bowl, dressed to the
nines in flowers and ferns, with a piece of red hibiscus flower stuck
on one cheek like a beauty patch, her short hair oiled and sprinkled
with grated sandalwood, was as pretty as a picture. The cup was
presented first to the chief,[65] who made a little speech of
welcome--'May your visit be a happy one'--then drank off the contents
and spun the