a twist of banana leaf, and
each has a stick thrust in it to eat it by. The grand feast was held
about four o'clock, in a long arbor built for the occasion of upright
sticks covered with cocoanut-palm leaves. Fresh green banana leaves
served as a table-cloth, and on it was spread every dainty known to
Samoa--pigs baked underground, turtle, whole fish, chickens, _taro_,
yams, roasted green bananas, broiled fresh-water prawns, crabs, a fat
worm that we pretended to eat but didn't, heart of cocoanut-tree salad
with dressing made of cream from the nuts, limes and sea-water, and
all kinds of fruit. We were all so hungry that, if it hadn't been for
Laulii's warning, we might have fallen to before the chief said grace,
which would have been a shocking breach of good manners. The first
ceremonious stiffness having worn off by this time, the meal was
enlivened by much friendly gaiety.

"That evening was given over to the dances, which lasted till nearly
midnight. The _manaia_ and the _taupo_ had each written songs and
composed music for the dances in our honor, and copies of them,
written out neatly by the schoolmaster, were presented to us. Our
friend, the English captain, made a great hit with the young men by
exhibiting feats of strength, which they all copied, being highly
delighted when they beat the Englishman, but cheering generously when
he beat them. Then we played casino, with sticks of tobacco on our
side and head knives, fans, etc., on theirs, for stakes. I perceived
that the _manaia_ purposely played badly in order to let me win his
head knife, on which he had carved my name.

"We had intended returning over the mountain as we came, but the chief
suggested that we go back by sailboat, as they had a very good one,
and we could stop at some village every night on the way home. When we
saw the boat we found it to be a primitive affair, with a bent tree
for a mast and the sails tied with rotten ropes, but, knowing the
natives to be the best boatmen in the world, we decided to take our
chances and rely on their skill to pilot us safely home. We sent a
number of our men back over the mountain to carry our share of the
presents, but, as we were going to stop at villages on the way we took
with us our part of the feast--several turtles, and, in lieu of calico
or European things, which were not to be had at this retired place,
some _tapa_--for gifts. Before we left I made a parcel of
sandwiches--of tinned tongue and stale