pon the lofty bluffs between
which the river now ran, it was draped in folds down to the water; over
this curtain broke a lurid silvery sort of light, making all things
hideous; a heavy moaning sound as of wind was heard throughout the
forest; the leaves shook rattling upon the surrounding shrubs, yet no
air was perceptible even whilst going at a gallop. For a moment this
strange sound would cease wholly, and then roar forth again, as though
the pent tempest was striving close at hand for space and freedom of
action.

Occasionally a vivid flash of lightning would stream from the impending
cloud downward upon the river; and, in momentary expectation of a
regular tornado, on we spurred to reach some shelter.

But after all, our fears were fruitless, or let me rather say our
hopes, since we agreed that a hurricane chancing here would be a
consummation singularly happy. It is certain no fitter scene could well
have been selected for such an event, and indeed this was all that was
needed to make the savage grandeur of the picture perfect.

Expectation had attained its height, when, after a few big splashes of
rain, the sombre curtain drew gradually up, the sun looked forth once
more, shining vividly, and the so lately gloomy waters below, again
laughed and sparkled as they went bounding, gladly, over their rugged
bed.

About midday we arrived at a house occupied by a person who attends one
of the many locks on the canal; and by the ready aid of this worthy and
his pretty young helpmate, our horses and ourselves were well supplied
with _vivres_, and otherwise cared for.

After we had discussed sundry rashers of ham, broiled chicken, and
new-laid eggs, we were informed by our friend the lock-keeper, who had
been examining the ford, that the frail bridge which had recently served
to cross a branch of the stream to an island from whose southern side
alone the Falls might be surveyed, was no longer in being.

What was to be done? was the whole purpose of our hard ride to be
defeated by the dislocation of a few loose planks? Our cool pioneer even
admitted that it seemed "mighty hard," and called his spouse to council;
but from her we received small hope, as she at once decided that to
cross so as to get anywhere within sight of the Falls was impossible.

We as stoutly declared our resolution to attempt fording the dividing
current, and requested our host to point out the best probable place for
this purpose.

This he at