.--For outdoor buildings, such as garages, garden sheds,
toolhouses, etc., "weatherboarding" is often preferred to ordinary
matchboarding, chiefly because of the facility with which it throws off
the rain. The boarding can be bought ready prepared. Three methods of
jointing are shown in the sections at Fig. 343. The method indicated at A
shows one of the most satisfactory types, its boards being planed and
moulded as shown. The other two examples are more common. The boarding at
B is rebated, whilst at C each board overhangs its lower neighbour. The
boards for C and D are always cut tapered as indicated.
[Illustration: Fig. 343.--Weather Boards.]
[Illustration: Fig. 344.--Ladder Rungs.]
The end grain is usually protected by nailing on a strip of timber,
chamfered on both edges.
LADDERS.--Fig. 344 illustrates the method of fastening the rung (or
stave) of a ladder to the side. At A the common method is shown, the
stave being simply driven into the hole and wedged. At B a much better
but more expensive method of construction is given. The stave here is
socketed and the pin turned to a smaller diameter. In both cases the
rung, or stave, is painted before being driven into the side and wedged.
[Illustration: Fig. 345.--Cornice Pole Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 346.--Veneer Keying.]
Ladder sides are made in two distinct ways. One method is known as "a
plank side," the side being cut from a plank as shown at the section D;
the other method is called "a pole side," and is constructed by cutting a
straight larch pole in half and using half of the pole for each side of
the ladder, as at section C.
HINGED CORNICE POLES.--Fig. 345 shows a hinged joint for cornice poles
and should be of interest to those who are frequently removing from house
to house. The joint will adapt itself to fit any bay window (even a
square bay) and it is formed by turning and cutting the two pieces shown.
To fix a cornice pole to a bay window one of these joints is required for
each angle of the bay, the pole being cut into suitable lengths and fixed
to the hinged joints by the use of the dowel screw and a little hot
glue. It is perhaps needless to remark that the diameter of the joint
should be of the same diameter as the cornice pole, to enable the rings
to easily slide over the surface.
For fastening a turned ornament (or "finial") to the end of a cornice
pole a double pointed screw (known in the trade as a "dowel screw") is
used, one
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