n the late afternoon the
streets were full of people, wagons, carriages, horsemen, all with a
holiday air, dashed with African color and humor--the irresponsibility
of the most insouciant and humorous race in the world, perhaps more
comical than humorous; a mixture of recent civilization and rudeness,
peculiar and amusing; a happy coming together, it seemed, of Southern
abandon and Northern wealth, though the North was little represented at
this season.

As evening came on, the streets, though wanting gas, were still more
animated; the shops were open, some very good ones, and the white
and black throng increasing, especially the black, for the negro is
preeminently a night bird. In the hotels dancing was promised--the
german was announced; on the galleries and in the corridors were
groups of young people, a little loud in manner and voice,--the young
gentleman, with his over-elaborate manner to ladies in bowing and
hat-lifting, and the blooming girls from the lesser Southern cities,
with the slight provincial note, and yet with the frank and engaging
cordiality which is as charming as it is characteristic. I do not know
what led the Professor to query if the Southern young women were not
superior to the Southern young men, but he is always asking questions
nobody can answer. At the Swannanoa were half a dozen bridal couples,
readily recognizable by the perfect air they had of having been
married a long time. How interesting such young voyagers are, and how
interesting they are to each other! Columbus never discovered such a
large world as they have to find out and possess each in the other.

Among the attractions of the evening it was difficult to choose. There
was a lawn-party advertised at Battery Point (where a fine hotel has
since been built) and we walked up to that round knob after dark. It is
a hill with a grove, which commands a charming view, and was fortified
during the war. We found it illuminated with Chinese lanterns; and
little tables set about under the trees, laden with cake and ice-cream,
offered a chance to the stranger to contribute money for the benefit
of the Presbyterian Church. I am afraid it was not a profitable
entertainment, for the men seemed to have business elsewhere, but the
ladies about the tables made charming groups in the lighted grove. Man
is a stupid animal at best, or he would not make it so difficult for the
womenkind to scrape together a little money for charitable purposes.
But