having been
brought in from a neighbor's, I was helped out by the severe thumping
it got, and by a "Tommy Atkins" song from a strolling comedian. People
came from a great distance, and the attendance all told netted the
house about three pounds sterling. The owner of the hall, a kind lady
from Scotland, would take no rent, and so my lecture from the start
was a success.

From this snug little place I made sail for Devonport, a thriving
place on the river Mersey, a few hours' sail westward along the coast,
and fast becoming the most important port in Tasmania. Large steamers
enter there now and carry away great cargoes of farm produce, but the
_Spray_ was the first vessel to bring the Stars and Stripes to the
port, the harbor-master, Captain Murray, told me, and so it is written
in the port records. For the great distinction the _Spray_ enjoyed
many civilities while she rode comfortably at anchor in her
port-duster awning that covered her from stem to stern.

From the magistrate's house, "Malunnah," on the point, she was saluted
by the Jack both on coming in and on going out, and dear Mrs.
Aikenhead, the mistress of Malunnah, supplied the _Spray_ with jams
and jellies of all sorts, by the case, prepared from the fruits of her
own rich garden--enough to last all the way home and to spare. Mrs.
Wood, farther up the harbor, put up bottles of raspberry wine for me.
At this point, more than ever before, I was in the land of good cheer.
Mrs. Powell sent on board chutney prepared "as we prepare it in
India." Fish, and game were plentiful here, and the voice of the
gobbler was heard, and from Pardo, farther up the country, came an
enormous cheese; and yet people inquire: "What did you live on? What
did you eat?"

[Illustration: The _Spray_ in her port duster at Devonport, Tasmania,
February 22, 1897.]

I was haunted by the beauty of the landscape all about, of the natural
ferneries then disappearing, and of the domed forest-trees on the
slopes, and was fortunate in meeting a gentleman intent on preserving
in art the beauties of his country. He presented me with many
reproductions from his collection of pictures, also many originals, to
show to my friends.

By another gentleman I was charged to tell the glories of Tasmania in
every land and on every occasion. This was Dr. McCall, M. L. C. The
doctor gave me useful hints on lecturing. It was not without
misgivings, however, that I filled away on this new course, and I am
f