at drum-stove. I have described my method of wooding up in
detail, that the reader who has kindly borne with me so far may see
that in this, as in all other particulars of my voyage, I took great
care against all kinds of surprises, whether by animals or by the
elements. In the Strait of Magellan the greatest vigilance was
necessary. In this instance I reasoned that I had all about me the
greatest danger of the whole voyage--the treachery of cunning savages,
for which I must be particularly on the alert.

The _Spray_ sailed from Three Island Cove in the morning after the
gale went down, but was glad to return for shelter from another sudden
gale. Sailing again on the following day, she fetched Borgia Bay, a
few miles on her course, where vessels had anchored from time to time
and had nailed boards on the trees ashore with name and date of
harboring carved or painted. Nothing else could I see to indicate that
civilized man had ever been there. I had taken a survey of the gloomy
place with my spy-glass, and was getting my boat out to land and take
notes, when the Chilean gunboat _Huemel_ came in, and officers, coming
on board, advised me to leave the place at once, a thing that required
little eloquence to persuade me to do. I accepted the captain's kind
offer of a tow to the next anchorage, at the place called Notch Cove,
eight miles farther along, where I should be clear of the worst of the
Fuegians.

[Illustration: A bit of friendly assistance. (After a sketch by
Midshipman Miguel Arenas.)]

We made anchorage at the cove about dark that night, while the wind
came down in fierce williwaws from the mountains. An instance of
Magellan weather was afforded when the _Huemel_, a well-appointed
gunboat of great power, after attempting on the following day to
proceed on her voyage, was obliged by sheer force of the wind to
return and take up anchorage again and remain till the gale abated;
and lucky she was to get back!

Meeting this vessel was a little godsend. She was commanded and
officered by high-class sailors and educated gentlemen. An
entertainment that was gotten up on her, impromptu, at the Notch would
be hard to beat anywhere. One of her midshipmen sang popular songs in
French, German, and Spanish, and one (so he said) in Russian. If the
audience did not know the lingo of one song from another, it was no
drawback to the merriment.

I was left alone the next day, for then the _Huemel_ put out on her
voyage the g