ent to the
one which we were told was the best worth seeing. The roof was hollowed
into the shape of an arch and covered with smoothly-cut stones cemented
together. This led into a room in which is a deep well. We also saw some
hieroglyphics, and some sculpture; most of these represented men
carrying birds. It was not very interesting, and we did not stay long to
look at it.

We had a delightful ride back to Bedreshyn, through fields and among
clumps of thorny mimosa, on which the camels love to browse. The
palm-trees looked beautiful in the clear sunlight. Nothing was wanting
but the song of birds, and this is a want almost always felt by
Europeans in the hot climates of Africa and Asia.

The next day we went to the Pyramids of Dashoor. Two are of stone and
two of brick. The first was the largest. Colonel Howard Vyse gives its
height as three hundred and twenty feet. The entrance was covered with
stones and rubbish. The second pyramid is not so large. The ascent to
the entrance is not very difficult, but the descent is exceedingly so,
and there is not much to repay one for the trouble.

We returned to our boat in good time, and were much amused, after we had
again started, by watching the peasants raising water from the river
with poles and buckets, and with looking at the Arab boats, a number of
which passed us.

We next came to El Kafr el Jyat. It is only a small village, but in it
is the residence of a wealthy chief whose hospitable house is the resort
of travellers. He bears the title of Khabeeree, or "the guide." We find
from Sir G. Wilkinson's book[A] that this title "has been hereditary in
his family since the time of Sultan Selim, who gave it to his ancestor
as a reward for his services in that capacity, when he took possession
of the country after the defeat of the son of El Ghoree."

We next passed the False Pyramid. It takes its name from the base being
of rock and not really part of the building.

The banks of the river and villages were enlivened with palm-trees. But
we passed no place of any size or interest till we came to Benisooef.

Benisooef is the capital of the province, the Fyoom, and has several
manufactories of cotton and silk.

We are lounging idly on deck looking at the scene before us. A great
many boats are tied to the shore, and a number of people are on the
quay. The children are tolerably clad, and some of the old men are
exceedingly picturesque in their white dresses, with their