lose, and I resolved to attempt the passage of the river.
Trusting to my well tried horse, which had already carried me safely
through many difficult coasting journeys, I cautiously rode into the
river, which became deeper at every step. The overwhelming force of the
stream was felt by my horse; and he presently lost his footing, though
he still continued to struggle vigorously against the force of the
current. At this juncture, some passing clouds obscured the moon, and I
lost sight of a group of trees which, before leaving the opposite bank,
I fixed my eye upon as a guiding beacon. Quite powerless, my horse
and I were carried away by the stream, and driven against a rock in
the middle of the river. I now heard the anxious outcries of my negro
and the travellers on the bank, whilst the waves rose over my head.
With a convulsive effort I pulled the bridle, and the horse then
turning completely round, once more gained his solid footing. I then
gave him the spur, and the courageous animal dashing again into the
midst of the current, swam with me to the bank. I rode forward with my
negro in search of a better fording-place, and after several fruitless
attempts, we at length found one, and we crossed the river safely. The
other travellers did not venture to follow our example, but called out
begging us not to leave them behind. I sent the negro back on my horse
to bring them over; and the noble animal went backward and forward no
less than seven times without making one false step. After all this
exertion, he bore me with unflagging spirit into Lima, where we
arrived at noon on the following day.

From the Pasamayo, the road runs for the space of two leagues
tolerably level, and for the most part amidst plantations. Then
succeed steep sandy hills, for the distance of about four leagues.
The roads are very wearisome both to horse and rider, especially in
the declivities towards the plains, where the horse is frequently
over his knees in sand. In those parts there are also some
extraordinary atmospheric mirrors, in which we beheld ourselves in
reflection, riding over our own heads, and our figures magnified to
gigantic proportions. Six leagues from Chancay, there are two wretched
huts, forming the tambo, or inn, in which travellers obtain
refreshment. From thence the road runs through a stony tract,
partially strewn with large masses of rock, called the _Piedras
gordas_, and leading to the marshes which surround the Copacahua