some in these parts and have since migrated
into the interior leaving the ancient sites to elephants and other
beasts. It is very much more comfortable on the _Delivrance_ than on the
larger steamers, for, being the only passenger, I have plenty of room in
the cabin below and as usual in these small craft, we have all our meals
on the bridge.

[Illustration: LOADING A BARGE.]

On the 11th we arrive at Barumbu, a small Post with a large brick house
for the Commissaire when he visits the place. Here most of the natives
were dancing and looked very ridiculous. They did not move over the
ground and seemed to be doing a kind of physical drill. First one leg
was kicked forwards and backwards while the other did a heavy stiff
looking hop. Then perhaps the arms were thrown up and down and the whole
body advanced from the hips, and finally the head was jerked to and fro.
These movements were repeated time after time, evidently in a regular
set order, for once started, several people performed exactly the same
in perfect time whether they could see each other or were back to back.
The whole affair looked stiff and ungracious, but was keenly enjoyed by
the natives.

[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF BASOKO.]

An hour later we arrived at Basoko, the capital of the Aruwimi District.
It is different from other Posts, for it has a wall running along the
river front with a square tower in the centre, giving the appearance of
fortification. There are indeed a few guns here, but not many troops.
After paying a short visit to the Commissaire General of Aruwimi,
Captain Pimpurnieaux, we continue our journey.

Next morning was pay day, all the ordinary seamen receiving 21 mitakos
a week, but the capitas and wheelmen were given more. These latter are
usually a very responsible set of men, for after a few journeys they
remember every island and land-mark on the river and often steer all day
without a word of command from the captain. About midday we met the
_Ville de Paris_ which differs from the other steamers in having her
wheels at the side instead of at the stern. This arrangement has not
however, proved a success, for this boat is neither so fast nor so
easily steered as the others.

I am now troubled with a new complaint, synovitis of the knee joint with
a good deal of effusion, which makes it very difficult to walk. It is
curious why this malady should have appeared, for I had not knocked or
otherwise injured the joint and had