tower built on the wall and the whole gives
the appearance that the occupants knew they were living in the midst of
cannibals, who would not hesitate to attack them if they were not well
prepared to resist. It is to be hoped that the present expedition will
be successful in converting a few from their barbarous condition, but
great difficulties have to be overcome, for the fighting must be in the
forest, as the natives never meet troops in the open if they can help
it. In the evening we reached Nouvelle Anvers, a large and populous
town. The houses are arranged along the river bank, surrounded by
gardens, and the quarters of the troops leave nothing to be desired.

Christinas Day has nothing resembling Christmas about it. A tropical sun
burns overhead, warm sandy water glares below. In the morning we pass
Mosembe, a Mission Station, and in the afternoon, Lulongo. There used to
be a large village and coffee plantation here, but it was not a success
and has been abandoned. The Mission however, still remains as also a
Wood Post where we stop for the night and try to believe that duck is
turkey and mutton, roastbeef. We have now traversed the whole of the
river which runs past the Bangala District. It is undoubtedly very
sparsely populated, but on the other hand, there are no remains of
villages or clearings in the forest which would indicate it has ever
been otherwise.

Next day we reach Coquilhatville early and after taking some rubber and
gum copal on board leave in the afternoon. From this point the river is
familiar and at each place are old friends. At Irebu, Commandant Jeniaux
comes on board and we have a chat about the condition of the agitation
in Europe. Since we last met I have travelled some thousands of miles
and have formed an opinion both of the system of Government and of those
who administer it. There is no doubt whatever in my mind, that the
native is not habitually ill-treated and that he is very well paid for
his work. It is impossible to do more than guess at the object of the
outcry, but it is certain that no agitation based on such a little
foundation has ever been attended by such a near approach to success.

Next day we stop at Lukoteia and take on board logs of wood and timber
already worked into beams and posts for building. A little lower down is
the old coffee plantation and close to it, tobacco is being grown. The
river here is very wide and full of islands. To one of these we tie up
and are