e reserve, that when the natives are discontented and rebel,
it is not because they dislike the system of Government, but are
dissatisfied with the man who administers it.

[Illustration: NATIVE CHIEFS AT COQUILHATVILLE.]

On August 16th, Inspecteur d'Etat Warnant, Commander in-chief of the
Force Publique, arrives at Irebu. He is on a tour of inspection, and has
every reason to be satisfied with the efficiency of the troops. Perfect
discipline and harmony is maintained throughout all ranks and all the
officers are agreed that the troops are perfectly steady when fighting
and never show the least sign of cowardice. Many are very good shots and
their drill certainly leaves nothing to be desired.

On the same day Mr. Joseph Clarke, of the American Baptist Mission at
Ikoko, calls at Irebu and kindly invites me to his house for a few days.
This is situated on the banks of Lake Tumba, or Mantumba or Lac N'Tomba,
whichever you prefer. Lord Mountmorres remains at Irebu, but I leave in
Mr. Clarke's boat, propelled by twenty four paddlers, and journey along
the canal, which twists and turns in all directions. Towards sunset we
land at Boboko where Mr. Clarke buys some ducks and eggs, the price of
the latter being a table-spoonful of salt for each. He arranges also to
sell some nails to the Chief. We then cross the canal to Itutu, a branch
Mission Station conducted by a native who preaches, and is an excellent
carpenter. Here we sleep, Mr. Clarke making up a bed in the boat, while
I occupy a mud hut which however, is scrupulously clean.

Next morning, after a bathe in the canal, in which the water is like
warm, weak coffee, we continue our journey to Ngero, a long straggling
village on the north bank of the Lake. The huts here are oblong and
strongly constructed of hard cane and mud, the roofs being thatched with
dried palm leaves closely interlaced. It is necessary to stoop to enter
them, for the doors are not five feet high, but it is possible to stand
upright within. There is usually a wood fire burning, but no outlet for
the smoke, which slowly finds its way through the roof. The rafters
therefore, are covered with a kind of tar which, undoubtedly, acts as an
antiseptic, and also keeps away the insects. The mosquitoes indeed, will
not face wood smoke, but tobacco smoke is useless as a shield against
their attacks. Both sexes here are practically nude. The men are
fishermen and the women look after the banana-plantations, cru