, the race-course, bull-baiting, the cock-pit, and various
minor amusements, come into full operation. In all these you may meet
the robed priest of the morning, and stake your dollar or doubloon
against his, if you feel so inclined.

"San Juan" is one of the "_fiestas principales_"--one of the most noted
of Mexican ceremonials. On this day--particularly in a _New_ Mexican
village--the houses are completely deserted. All people turn out, and
proceed to some well-known locality, usually a neighbouring plain, to
witness the sports--which consist of horse-racing, "tailing the bull,"
"running the cock," and the like. The intervals are filled up by
gambling, smoking, and flirtation.

There is much of republican equality exhibited on these occasions. Rich
and poor, high and low, mingle in the throng, and take part in the
amusements of the day.

It is the day of San Juan. A broad grassy plain lies just outside the
town of San Ildefonso, and upon this the citizens are assembled. It is
the scene of the festival, and the sports will soon begin. Before they
do, let us stroll through the crowd, and note its component parts. All
classes of the community--in fact, all the community--appear to be
present. There go the two stout _padres_ of the mission, bustling about
in their long gowns of coarse serge, with bead-string and crucifix
dangling to their knees, and scalp-lock close shaven. The Apache will
find no trophy on their crowns.

There is the _cura_ of the town church, conspicuous in his long black
cloak, shovel hat, black silk stockings, pumps, and buckles. Now
smiling benignly upon the crowd, now darting quick Jesuitical glance
from his dark ill-meaning eyes, and now playing off his white jewelled
fingers, as he assists some newly-arrived "senora" to climb to her seat.
Great "ladies' men" are these same black-gowned bachelor-churchmen of
Mexico.

We have arrived in front of several rows of seats raised above one
another. Let us observe who occupy them. At a glance it is apparent
they are in possession of the "_familias principales_," the aristocracy
of the settlement. Yes--there is the rich "_comerciante_," Don Jose
Rincon, his fat wife, and four fat sleepy-looking daughters. There,
too, is the wife and family of the "Alcalde," and this magistrate
himself with tasselled official staff; and the Echevarrias--pretty
creatures that they think themselves--under care of their brother, the
beau, who has discarded