pantaloons, not
exactly of European cut, but approaching it--a sort of compromise
between Paris fashions and the native costume of the country.

Another costume may be noticed, worn by many of the crowd. This is the
dress of the native "Pueblos", or _Indios mansos_--the poor labourers of
the mines, and the neophytes of the mission. It is a simple dress, and
consists of an upper garment, the _tilma_, a sort of coat without
sleeves. A coffee-sack with a hole ripped in the bottom for the head to
pass through, and a slit cut in each side for the arms, would make the
"tilma." It has no waist, and hangs nearly to the hips without other
fastening than the support at the shoulders. The tilma is usually a
piece of coarse rug--a cheap woollen cloth of the country, called
"gerga," of a whitish colour, with a few dyed threads to give the
semblance of a pattern. This with a pair of dressed sheepskin breeches
and rude sandals--_guaraches_--constitutes the wear of most of the
"Indios mansos" of Mexico. The head is bare; and the legs, from the
knee to the ankle, shine forth in all their copper-coloured nakedness.

Of these dark aborigines--the "peons" of the mission and the mines--
there are hundreds stalking about, while their wives and daughters sit
squatted upon the ground in rear of their _petates_; upon which are
piled the fruits of the soil--the _tunas, petahayas_, plums, apricots,
grapes, _sandias_, and other species of melons, with roasted nuts of the
pinon-tree, the produce of the neighbouring mountains. Others keep
stands of _dulces_ and _agua-miel_ or _limonada_; while others sell
small loaves--_piloncilios_--of corn-stalk sugar, or baked roots of the
agave. Some squat before fires, and prepare _tortillas_ and _chile
Colorado_; or melt the sugared chocolate cake in their urn-like earthen
_ollas_. From these humble "hucksters," a hot peppery stew, a dish of
_atole_, or a bowl of _pinole_, is to be had for a few _clacos_. There
are other stands where you can buy cigarillos of _punche_, or a drink of
the fiery _aguardiente_ from Taos or El Paso; and these stands are
favourite resorts of the thirsty miners and soldiers. There are no
"booths," but most of the hucksters protect themselves from the sun by a
huge screen of palmetto mat (_petate_) placed umbrella-like over their
heads.

There is one class of persons yet to be spoken of--an important class at
the festival of San Juan--they who are to be competitors in t