g; the dust of the road lay grey and thick about my feet; above me
the heavens were reddening in sunset glory; the landscape had no touch
of human life about it save our own two solitary figures; and the place,
fifteen li away, lay before me as a dream of a good night rather than a
reality.

Then on again we plodded, and yelled our intentions to the men behind.

From the brow of the hill we descended with extreme rapidity--down, down
into a valley which sent up a damp, oppressive atmosphere. Through the
trees I could see one lovely ball of deep, rich red, painting the earth
as it sank in a beauty exquisite beyond all else. Four men met us,
stared suspiciously, thought we were deaf, and yelled that the place was
twenty li away, and that we had better return to the brow of the hill.
But we left them, and went still farther down. In the hush that
prevailed I was unaccountably startled to see the form of a woman
gliding towards me in the twilight. She came out of the valley carrying
firewood. She spoke kindly to my man, and invited me to spend the night
in her house near by.

I was for the moment vaguely awed by her very quiescence, and gazed
wondering, doubting, bewildered. What was the little trick? Could I not
from such things get free, even in Inland China? The red light of the
sunken sun playing round her comely figure dazzled me, it is admitted,
and I followed her with a sigh of mingled dread and desire for rest.
Shall I say the shadow of the smile upon her lips deepened and softened
with an infinite compassion?

Dogs rounded upon me as I entered the bamboo hut stuck on the side of
the hill--they knew I had no right there. Inside a man was nursing a
squalling baby; our escort was its mother, the man her husband. So I was
safe. The place was swept up, unnecessary gear was taken away, fire was
kindled, tea was brewed, rice was prepared; and whilst in shaving (for
we were to reach Tengyueh on the morrow) I dodged here and there to
escape the smoke and get the most light, giving my hospitable host a
good deal of fun in so doing; every possible preparation was made for my
comfort and convenience by the untiring woman at whose invitation I was
there. Their attentions embarrassed me; every movement, every look,
every gesture, every wish was anticipated, so that I had no more
discomfort than a roaring wind and a low temperature about the region
which no one could help. It was bitterly cold. In front of the fire I
sat in a