not go back to Donnybrook and
Dublin, hoist the Orange cockade, and become as good an Orange boy as
ever."

"What," said I, "and give up Popery for the second time?"

"I would, your hanner; and why not? for in spite of what I have heard
Father Toban say, I am by no means certain that all Protestants will be
damned."

"Farewell," said I.

"Farewell, your hanner, and long life and prosperity to you! God bless
your hanner and your Orange face. Ah, the Orange boys are the boys for
keeping faith. They never served me as Dan O'Connell and his dirty gang
of repalers and emancipators did. Farewell, your hanner, once more; and
here's another scratch of the illigant tune your hanner is so fond of, to
cheer up your hanner's ears upon your way."

And long after I had left him I could hear him playing on his fiddle in
first-rate style the beautiful tune of "Down, down, Croppies Lie Down."

CHAPTER XXVI

Ceiniog Mawr--Pentre Voelas--The Old Conway--Stupendous Pass--The Gwedir
Family--Capel Curig--The Two Children--Bread--Wonderful Echo--Tremendous
Walker.

I walked on briskly over a flat uninteresting country, and in about an
hour's time came in front of a large stone house. It stood near the
road, on the left-hand side, with a pond and pleasant trees before it,
and a number of corn-stacks behind. It had something the appearance of
an inn, but displayed no sign. As I was standing looking at it, a man
with the look of a labourer, and with a dog by his side, came out of the
house and advanced towards me.

"What is the name of this place?" said I to him in English as he drew
nigh.

"Sir," said the man, "the name of the house is Ceiniog Mawr."

"Is it an inn?" said I.

"Not now, sir; but some years ago it was an inn, and a very large one, at
which coaches used to stop; at present it is occupied by an
amaethwr--that is a farmer, sir."

"Ceiniog Mawr means a great penny," said I, "why is it called by that
name?"

"I have heard, sir, that before it was an inn it was a very considerable
place, namely a royal mint, at which pennies were made, and on that
account it was called Ceiniog Mawr."

I was subsequently told that the name of this place was Cernioge Mawr.
If such be the real name the legend about the mint falls to the ground,
Cernioge having nothing to do with pence. Cern in Welsh means a jaw.
Perhaps the true name of the house is Corniawg, which interpreted is a
place with plenty of turrets or chimn