breakfast--"Il faut payer pour ses plaisirs"--Dramatic
exit--Perpignan--Home of the kings of Majorca--Elne--"Adieu, ma chere
France!"--Over the frontier--Gerona--Crowded platform--What H. C.
thought--Unpoetical incident--From the sublime to the ridiculous 12

CHAPTER III.

BLACK COFFEE--AND A CONFESSION.

Continued uproar--H. C. disillusioned--A dark night--Not like another
Caesar--More crowds--A demon scene--Fair time--Glorious days of the
past--In marble halls and labyrinthine passages--Our excellent host--His
substantial partner--Contented minds--Picturesque court--Songless
nightingales--Conscription--H. C.'s modesty--Our host appreciative but
personal--Bears the torch of genius--A mistake--Below the salt--Host's
fair daughters--Catalonian women--The Silent Enigma--Remarkable
priest--Good intentions--Lecture on black
coffee--Confessions--Benjamin's portions--A gifted nature 27

CHAPTER IV.

A NIGHT VISION.

Wrong turnings--H. C.'s gifts and graces--Out at night--The arcades of
Gerona--At the fair--Ancient outlines--Demons at work--In the dry bed of
the river--Roasting chestnuts--Mediaeval outlines--In the
vortex--Clairvoyantes and lion-tamers--Clown's despair--Deserted
streets--Vision of the night--Haunted staircase--Dark and dangerous--A
small grievance--The reeds by the river--Cry of the watchmen--Hare and
hounds--Fair Rosamund--Jacob's ladder--New rendering to old
proverbs--Cathedral by night--H. C. oblivious--Scent fails--Return to
earth--Romantic story--Last of a long line--_El Sereno!_--The witching
hour--H. C. unserenaded--Next morning--Grey skies--A false
prophet--Magic picture--Cathedral by day--Mediaeval dreams 41

CHAPTER V.

GERONA THE BEAUTIFUL.

A Gerona senora--Grace and charm--Lord of creation--Morning
greeting--Arcades and ancient houses--Conscription--Gerona a
discovery--Streets of steps--Ancient eaves and rare ironwork--Old-world
corner--Desecrated church--Gothic cloisters--Ghosts of the past--Visions
of to-day--Soldiers interested--"Happy as kings"--Lingerings--Colonel
seeks explanation--No lover of antiquity--More conscription--Dramatic
scene--Pedro to the rescue--Mother and son--Sad story--Strong and
merciful--Pedro grateful--Restricted interests--Colonel becomes
impenetrable again 58

CHAPTER VI.

ANSELMO THE PRIEST.

Beauties of age--Apostles' Doorway--How the old bishops kept out of
temptation--In