t
of lame stalls is packed so closely, shoulder to shoulder, that if one
gave an inch the whole line would fall. Meat, greengrocery, Brummagem
jewellery for the rich beauty of Rhoda, shell-fish, confectionery, old
magazines, pirated music, haberdashery, "throw-out" (or Sudden Death)
cigars--all these glories are waiting to seize your pennies. Slippery
slices of fish sprawl dolefully on the slabs. The complexion of the
meat-shops, under the yellow light, is rich and strange. But there is
very little shouting; the shopkeepers make no attempt to entice you.
There are the goods: have 'em if you like; if not, leave 'em.

If you are hungry, and really want something to eat, I suggest your
going to one of the restaurants or hotels, and trying their table
d'hote. They run usually to six or seven courses, two of which will
satisfy any reasonable hunger. Yet I have seen frail young girls tackle
the complete menu, and come up fresh and smiling at the end. Of course,
women are, as a rule, much heavier eaters than men, but these delicate,
pallid girls of the Ghetto set you marvelling. I have occasionally
joined a party, and delightful table companions they were. For they can
talk; they have, if not humour, at any rate a very mordant wit, as all
melancholy peoples have; and they languish in the most delicately
captivating way.

On my first experience, we started the meal with Solomon Grundy--pickled
herring. Then followed a thick soup, in which were little threads of a
paste made from eggs and flour and little balls of unleavened dough.
Then came a kind of pea-soup, and here a little lady of the party
ordered unfermented Muscat wine. The good Jew may not touch shell-fish
or any fish without scales, so we were next served with fried soles and
fried plaice, of which Rachel took both, following, apparently, the
custom of the country. Although the menu consists of seven courses, each
item contains two, and sometimes three or four, dishes; and the correct
diner tastes every one. Roast veal, served in the form of stew,
followed, and then came roast fowl and tongue. There were also salads,
and sauerkraut, and then a pease-pudding, and then almond-pudding, and
then staffen, and then ... I loosened a button, and gazed upon Rachel in
wonder. She was still eating bread.

It is well to be careful, before visiting any of the Ghetto cafes, to
acquaint yourself with rules and ceremonies. Otherwise you may
unintentionally give offence and make yo