asked our black pilot when we should come to the town. "By by den you
see," he answered with a look which denoted that we should in time
witness something worth beholding.

The water was as smooth as glass. Here and there coveys of birds might
be seen skimming along the surface, while overhead a flight of scarlet
winged flamingos swept in wide circles, their plumage flashing in the
sun as they prepared to descend on one of the many sandbanks in the
stream, to carry on their fishing operations. As we advanced, now and
then a canoe would shoot out from among the jungle; the black skinned
paddlers coming quickly alongside, to ascertain our character and the
objects for which we wished to trade. Sometimes too we could see troops
of monkeys making their way among the branches, their small grinning
faces peering out at us as we glided by through some channel near the
shore. Hour after hour thus passed by, but at length, towards evening,
the belt of mangrove bushes diminished in thickness, and other trees of
more attractive appearance began to take their place, and openings
appeared with a few huts scattered about on the slopes of gently rising
ground.

As evening was closing in we caught sight, in the far distance, of a
congregation of huts, and the pilot gave the captain the welcome
information, that he might shorten sail, and prepare to come to an
anchor. By the time we had made everything snug darkness closed down
upon us. We could just see a few lights twinkling ahead, while on
either side, across the stream, appeared the dark outline of the tall
trees which clothed the river's banks. Silence reigned around us, with
the exception of the ripple of the water against the vessel's bows; but
from afar off came a confused mixture of sounds, which appeared like the
croaking of frogs, the chirruping of crickets, and other creeping and
flying things, the screeching and chattering of monkeys, mingled with
the voices of human beings making merry round their huts. The air was
damp and heavy and hot; at the same time I felt that I should like to be
seated by a roaring drying fire.

We kept a watch on deck as if we were at sea, with arms ready for use,
for though our pilot had assured us "that all good people here," Captain
Willis was too well acquainted, both with the character of the natives,
and the sort of gentry who might possibly be in the river waiting for a
cargo of slaves, to put himself in their power.

I tumbled