the west to the east. It was at this spot
about a mile across, and its magnitude and solemn magnificence, as the
new-moon rose before them, with with the summer lightning at times
breaking through the evening sky, inspired his servants with awe and
alarm, while he stood on the roof, looking out for the city, the great
object of his journey.

Leaving the Niger and passing along a series of channels, the doctor
landed at the village of Kabara on the 5th of September. Here he took
up his quarters in a comfortable house while he despatched messengers to
the city. On their return, accompanied by the brother of the Sheikh El
Bakay, Sidi Alawate (who turned out a great rogue and cheated him in
every way), with several followers, on the 7th of September his
cavalcade set out for Timbuctoo.

The short distance was soon traversed, the doctor riding on ahead to
avoid the questions of those who met the party, as, had they felt the
slightest suspicion with regard to his character, they might have
prevented his entering the town, and thus endangered his life.
Unfortunately he encountered a man who addressed him in Turkish, a
language he had almost forgotten, and he had some difficulty in making a
reply.

Traversing the rubbish accumulated round the clay walls of the city, and
leaving on one side a row of dirty reed huts which encompassed the
place, he entered some narrow streets and lanes which scarcely allowed
two horses to proceed abreast. He was not a little surprised at the
populous and wealthy character which this quarter of the town exhibited,
many of the houses rising to the height of two stories, their _facades_
evincing even an attempt at architecture and adornment.

On passing the house of the Sheikh El Bakay, he was desired to fire a
pistol to do him honour, but, as his arms were loaded with ball, he
declined doing this, and soon reached the house destined for his
residence, thankful to find himself safely in his new quarters.

Timbuctoo has never been the real capital of a negro empire, but, on
account of its becoming the seat of Mahommedan learning and worship, it
enjoyed greater respect than Gogo, which was the real capital; and, on
account of its greater proximity to Morocco, the little commerce which
remained in that distracted region was here concentrated. It has,
however, undergone many changes during the fearful convulsions which
constantly occur in that region.

During the absence of the sheikh the do