nd
journeys over wastes which undoubtedly in the time of the Greek and the
Roman were covered with fruits and grain; but which now are treeless and
desolate as the deep whose breezes stir the flowers that deck them. At
times he must ford streams, which, if swollen with late rains, are
perilous in the extreme.

I remember once on my journey descending from one of those treeless wastes
upon a spot very different from any thing on this side of the Atlantic. It
was called Verdura, from its green and verdant character. A stream which
flowed through a plain bounded by lofty mountains here fell into the sea.
A large mill, which much resembles an ancient castle, and in all
probability had served both purposes in times gone by, stood near. Upon
the sandy beach close by, and hauled entirely out of the water, lay
several vessels in the style of Homer's ships; and I have no doubt bore a
strong resemblance to ships of ancient time, for they were picturesquely
formed, and painted fantastically with figures of fishes and eyes. The
wild-looking mariners were lounging lazily about in their shaggy capotes,
or engaged in loading their vessels with grain, the product of the
neighboring plains. Up the steep we had just descended a letiga was slowly
winding; and on a green declivity overlooking the sea, a flock of goats
were browsing, and their shepherd reclined near in listless idleness. Open
and treeless as was this scene, there was such a peaceful character about
it, such an air of primitive simplicity, that it made a strong impression
on my mind.

It does not come within the scope of this paper to offer any description
of the larger cities of Sicily, Palermo, Messina, etc. Most readers have
seen accounts of them more ample and more interesting than I could offer.
Of the smaller places I must content myself with giving a very general
description, so that I may retain the requisite space, in this division of
my article, for some notice of an ascent which I made to the sublime
summit of Mount AEtna.

The secondary towns to which I have alluded, such as Calatifini, Sciacca,
Caltagerone, etc., are in general picturesquely situated, and are built in
a massive and sometimes even in a magnificent style. The churches and
houses are all of hewn stone, and exhibit the various styles of
architecture of the builders; the Saracenic, the Norman-Gothic, or the
later Spanish taste. Sometimes the styles are fantastically intermixed;
but the whole, to t