es of lava along which we rode, by
the light of the stars which now became brilliant, we could discern the
snow stretching in long lines down the ravines on either hand; and as we
advanced, approaching nearer and nearer, until at length it spread in
broad fields before us. As the mules could go no farther, we dismounted,
and taking an iron-pointed staff in our hands, we commenced the journey
over the snows. It was now half-past one, and we had seven miles to
traverse before reaching the summit. The first part of the ascent was
discouraging, for it was steep, and the snow so slippery that we sometimes
fell on our faces; but it became rather less steep as we ascended, and
though fatiguing, we got along comfortably. As the atmosphere was becoming
rare, and the breathing hurried, we sat on the snow for a few minutes now
and then. At such times we could not but be struck with the splendor of
the stars, far beyond any thing I had ever seen. The milky way seemed
suspended in the deep heavens, like a luminous cloud, with clear and
definite outline. We next arrived at the _Casa degli Inglese_; so called,
but alas for us! the ridge of the roof and a part of the gable were all
that rose above the snow. In the midst of summer, travellers may make use
of it; but to us it was unavailing, except the gable, which served in a
measure to shield us from the icy wind which now swept over the mountain.
We again partook of a little refreshment, by way of preparation for the
most arduous part of our undertaking, and were now at the foot of the
great cone. The ascent was toilsome in the extreme. Snow, melted beneath
in many places by the heat of the mountain; sharp ridges of lava; loose
sand, ashes, and cinders, into which last the foot sank at every step,
made the ascent difficult as well as dangerous. The atmosphere was so rare
that we had to stop every few yards to breathe. At such times we could
hear our hearts beat within us like the strokes of a drum. But it was now
light, and we reached the summit of the great cone just as the sun rose.

It was a glorious sight which spread before our eyes! We took a hasty
glance into the gloomy crater of the volcano and throwing ourselves on the
warm ashes, gazed in wonder and astonishment. It would be vain for me to
attempt a description of the scene. I scarcely knew the world in which I
had lived. The hills and valleys over which we had been travelling for
many days, were comprised within the compass o