night, round which the soldiers and drivers were
sitting and singing their weird songs.

At Podgoritza we found Dr. Lilias Hamilton at supper with her staff. She
has had rather a hard time. The hospital was intended for Ipek, but for
some reason, although there were wounded in the town, the Montenegrins
decided to move it to Podgoritza, where there were none. After a
difficult journey across the mountains they settled down, but could
never get sufficient transport from the Government to bring their stores
over, except in small quantities. They started to work, but as there
were few soldiers to treat, Dr. Lilias, being a lady, interested herself
in the Turkish female population, a thing which the Montenegrins thought
a criminal waste of time, and tried to stop.

We got a bedroom in the hotel, and tired out, tried to sleep; but the
occupants of the cafe began a set of howling songs, very unmusical, and
kept us awake till past twelve. We have never heard this kind of singing
anywhere else.

Next day we crossed the river and explored the quaint and beautiful
streets of the Turkish quarter. The people are equally offensive on both
sides of the town; however, Podgoritza seems to be the White-chapel of
Montenegro--and we finally had to take refuge in the sheds of the French
wireless telegraphy. The commandant at the motor depot again treated us
rudely, but the Prefect was nice, this time. He promised us a carriage
on the morrow if no motor were forthcoming.

After supper the people began the awful howling songs; also there was a
wild orchestra which had one clarinet for melody and about ten deep
bass trumpets for accompaniment.

Next morning no carriage came, so off to the Prefect. He promised one
"odmah," which being translated is "at once," but means really within
"eight or nine hours." We waited. Nine a.m. passed. Ten a.m. went by. A
small boy sneaked up and tried to sell some contraband tobacco; but Jan
had just bought "State." An angry Turkish gentleman came and said that
his horses had been requisitioned to take us to Andrievitza, and that we
weren't going to get them till one o'clock, because he was using them.
We returned to the Prefect, not to complain--oh no--but to ask him to
telegraph to Andrievitza that we were coming. He was naturally surprised
to see us again, and explanations followed. A very humbled and much
better tempered Turk came to the cafe to say that the horses would be
with us "odmah."

A drizzl