-"Christ
bearing the Cross"--which has good colour, but carrying such a cross
would be an impossibility. Finally let me mention the bronze reliefs of
the life of S. Dominic in the Cappella of that saint in the right aisle.
The one representing his death, though perhaps a little on the florid
side, has some pretty and distinguished touches.

The building which adjoins the great church at right angles is the
Scuola di S. Marco, for which Tintoretto painted his "Miracle of S.
Mark," now in the Accademia, and thus made his reputation. It is to-day
a hospital. The two jolly lions on the facade are by Tullio Lombardi,
the reliefs being famous for the perspective of the steps, and here,
too, are reliefs of S. Mark's miracles. S. Mark is above the door, with
the brotherhood around him.

And now let us look again and again at the Colleoni, from every angle.
But he is noblest from the extreme corner on the Fondamenta Dandolo.

CHAPTER XXV

S. ELENA AND THE LIDO

The Arsenal--The public gardens--Garibaldi's monument--The art
exhibition--A water pageant--The prince and his escort--Venice _versus_
Genoa--The story of Helena--S. Pietro in Castello--The theft of the
brides--The Lido--A German paradise.

I do not know that there is any need to visit the Arsenal museum except
perhaps for the pleasure of being in a Venetian show place where no one
expects a tip. It has not much of interest to a foreigner, nor could I
discover a catalogue of what it does possess. Written labels are fixed
here and there, but they are not legible. The most popular exhibit is
the model of the Bucintoro, the State galley in which the Doge was rowed
to the Porto di Lido, past S. Nicholas of the Lido, to marry the
Adriatic; but the actual armour worn by Henri IV was to me more
thrilling.

Returning from the Arsenal to the Riva, we come soon, on the left, to
the Ponte della Veneta Marina, a dazzlingly white bridge with dolphins
carved upon it, and usually a loafer asleep on its broad balustrade; and
here the path strikes inland up the wide and crowded Via Garibaldi.

The shore of the lagoon between the bridge and the public gardens,
whither we are now bound, has some very picturesque buildings and
shipyards, particularly a great block more in the manner of Genoa than
Venice, with dormer windows and two great arches, in which myriad
families seem to live. Here clothes are always drying and mudlarks at
play.

Mr. Howells speaks in his _Venetian