e the consumptives are sent, and so we
enter the narrow way between the Giudecca and S. Giorgio Maggiore, on
the other side of which Venice awaits us in all her twilight loveliness.
And disembarking we are glad to be at home again. For even an
afternoon's absence is like an act of treachery.

And here, re-entering Venice in the way in which, in the first chapter,
I advised all travellers to get their first sight of her, I come to an
end, only too conscious of how ridiculous is the attempt to write a
single book on this city. Where many books could not exhaust the theme,
what chance has only one? At most it can say and say again (like "all of
the singing") how it was good!

Venice needs a whole library to describe her: a book on her churches and
a book on her palaces; a book on her painters and a book on her
sculptors; a book on her old families and a book on her new; a book on
her builders and a book on her bridges; a book--but why go on? The fact
is self-evident.

Yet there is something that a single book can do: it can testify to
delight received and endeavour to kindle an enthusiasm in others; and
that I may perhaps have done.

INDEX

Accademia, the, 98, 168.

Adriatic espousals, 27, 54, 161, 263.

Alberghetti, 75.

Albrizzi, Countess, and Byron, 132.

Alexander III., Pope, 18, 53, 54.

Americans, 65, 259.

_Amleto_, performance of, 163.

Animals, 250.

Architects, Venetian, 93.

Armenian monastery, 299.

Armenian proverbs, 304.

Arsenal, the, 166, 263.

Artists, modern, 14, 272, 276, 306.

Austrian rule in Venice, 12, 13, 106-107, 162.

Austrian tourists, 13, 32.

Barbarigo, Cardinal Gregorio, 125, 147.

Barbarigo, Pietro, Patriarch of Venice, 97.

Barbaro, Marc Antonio, 147.

Basaiti, pictures by, 96, 154, 169, 172, 190.

Bathing, 268.

Bead-workers, 202.

Beauharnais, Eugene, Prince of Venice, 12.

Beerbohm, Max, 104.

Bellini, Gentile, pictures by, 10, 51, 257.
his "Holy Cross" pictures, 179-180.
his S. Lorenzo Giustinian, 180.
his tomb, 256.

Bellini, Giovanni, pictures by, 50, 51, 63, 118, 125, 154, 169, 172,
192, 193, 203, 208, 215, 219, 224, 249, 259, 283.
his "Agony," 169.
his "Loredano," 169.
his "Peter Martyr," 169.
his career, 190.
and the Venetian School, 193.
his last picture, 224.
his