take, and
doubly foolish because the city has been peculiarly fortunate in her
chroniclers and eulogists. Mr. H.F. Brown stands first among the living,
as Ruskin among the dead; but Ruskin is for the student patient under
chastisement, whereas Mr. Brown's serenely human pages are for all. Of
Mr. Howells' _Venetian Life_ I have spoken more than once in this book;
its truth and vivacity are a proof of how little the central Venice has
altered, no matter what changes there may have been in government or
how often campanili fall. The late Col. Hugh Douglas's _Venice on Foot_,
if conscientiously followed, is such a key to a treasury of interest as
no other city has ever possessed. To Mrs. Audrey Richardson's _Doges of
Venice_ I am greatly indebted, and Herr Baedeker has been here as
elsewhere (in the Arab idiom) my father and my mother.

E.V.L.

_June, 1914._

CONTENTS

PAGE

PREFACE vii

CHAPTER I

THE BRIDE OF THE ADRIATIC 1

CHAPTER II

S. MARK'S. I: THE EXTERIOR 6

CHAPTER III

S. MARK'S. II: THE INTERIOR 17

CHAPTER IV

THE PIAZZA AND THE CAMPANILE 31

CHAPTER V

THE DOGES' PALACE. I: THE INTERIOR 46

CHAPTER VI

THE DOGES' PALACE. II: THE EXTERIOR 65

CHAPTER VII

THE PIAZZETTA 78

CHAPTER VIII

THE GRAND CANAL. I: FROM THE DOGANA TO THE PALAZZO REZZONICO,
LOOKING TO THE LEFT 91

CHAPTER IX

THE GRAND CANAL. II: BROWNING AND WAGNER 100

CHAPTER X

THE GRAND CANAL. III: FROM THE RIO FOSCARI TO S. SIMEONE, LOOKING
TO THE LEFT 110

CHAPTER XI

THE GRAND CANAL. IV: FROM THE STATION TO THE MOCENIGO PALACE,
LOOKING TO THE LEFT 119

CHAPTER XII

THE GRAND CANAL. V: BYRON IN VENICE 130

CHAPTER XIII

THE GRAND CANAL. VI: FROM THE MOCENIGO PALACE TO THE MOLO,
LOOKI