black, brown,
or drab, and the felts are gray, brown, drab, or black. The colored
shirt with white standing or turned-down collar is the usual
accompaniment to the lounge suit. The fashion for colored shirts in
stripes has been that the patterns run up and down and not across the
bosom. The tie is a four-in-hand or an Ascot, or a simple bow, the boots
black leather or dark-brown russet, and the gloves of tan or gray
undressed kid or of dogskin. For ordinary business wear, suits of black
or gray mixed cheviot, vicuna or worsted, or fancy Scotch goods, the
coat of which is a "cutaway," are also popular; but the black diagonal
"cutaway" has passed entirely out of fashion, and is utilized at present
in riding costume.

The lounge suit in summer is of blue flannel or very light cheviot or
tweed. Straw hats are worn in place of Derbies and felts. Fashion
sometimes dictates fancy waistcoats of linen to be worn with business
suits; otherwise the entire costume--trousers, coat, and waistcoat--is
of the same material.

In the country, at the seaside, or in communities where golf, wheeling,
tennis, yachting or other sports and pastimes are the order of the day,
the costumes appropriate for these are in vogue for lounge or morning
suits. This is what the English call "mufti." Such costumes are,
however, not in good form in the city.

Black leather, tan, or russet shoes are worn with morning dress. White
duck or flannel trousers, with black or blue cheviot coat and waistcoat,
make fashionable lounge suits for summer resorts.

_Afternoon dress_ consists of a double-breasted frock coat of soft
cheviot, vicuna, or diagonal worsted with either waistcoat to
match--single-breasted or double-breasted--of fancy cloth, Marseilles
duck or pique; trousers of different material, usually cashmere, quiet
in tone, with a striped pattern on a dark gray, drab, or blue
background; boots of patent leather, buttoned, not tied; a white or
colored shirt with straight standing white collar; a four-in-hand,
puffed Ascot, or small club tie; silk hat and undressed gray, tan, or
brown kid gloves. The colored shirt is an innovation, and it should be
used sparingly, white linen on any semiformal function being in better
form. When spats are used they should be of brown, gray, or drab cloth
or canvas, to match the trousers as nearly as possible. Some ultra
faddists wear white kid gloves with afternoon dress, but the fashion is
not universal.

Afternoon d