and its "twelve
miles" of main pipes, by means of which its inhabitants are watered.

But I must not linger in Grahamstown now. When there in the body, I was
sorely tempted to do so, too long, by the kindness of friends and the
salubrity of the weather. Adieu, Grahamstown! thou art a green spot in
memory, as well as in reality.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Note 1. The map of the present railways on page vi will enable the
reader to judge how far this has been realised.

LETTER TEN.

SALEM--A PECULIAR PICNIC--POLO UNDER DIFFICULTIES--LECTURING AND
SINGING--SPORTING AT NIGHT.

Salem is, as it should be, a peaceful spot. It was not always so.
There was a time when its inhabitants had to toil, so to speak, with the
spade in one hand, and the musket in the other. It lies in a hollow of
the great rolling plains, and was founded, like many of the eastern
towns, in the memorable "1820," when the "British settlers" came out,
and a new era for the colony began.

The arrival of the original settlers at Salem is thus described by one
who was a noted leader in the first days:

"Our Dutch wagon-driver intimating that we had at length reached our
proper location, we took our boxes out of the wagon, and placed them on
the ground. He bade us _goeden dag_, or farewell, cracked his long
whip, and drove away, leaving us to our reflections. My wife sat down
on one box, and I on another. The beautiful blue sky was above us, and
the green grass beneath our feet. We looked at each other for a few
moments, indulged in some reflections, and perhaps exchanged a few
sentences; but it was no time for sentiment, and hence we were soon
engaged in pitching our tent, and when that was accomplished, we removed
into it our trunks and bedding. All the other settlers who arrived with
us were similarly engaged, and in a comparatively short time the
somewhat extensive valley of that part of the Assagai Bush River, which
was to be the site of our future village, presented a lively and
picturesque appearance."

Soon the spade, the plough, and the axe began their subduing work. Some
of the beautiful grassy slopes were turned up. Small clearings were
made in the bush. Frail huts with doors of matting and windows of
calico began to arise. Lime was found, white-wash was applied, and the
huts began to "smile." So did the waters of the stream when partially
shorn of the bush-moustache by whi