ian
villages of our northern Indians, were it not for the fine old Catholic
church, which must have cost in its construction, centuries ago, fifty
times the value of the present village, without including the cost of
the bronze railing, brought from China in the prosperous days of the
Manilla Company.

CUARNAVACA.

Not stopping to examine the ruins of great antiquity near this place, I
rode on six leagues farther, when I arrived at the venerable city of
Cuarnavaca, the place selected by Cortez as the finest spot in all New
Spain. This was bestowed upon him, at his own request, by the Emperor
Charles V. as a residence. It merits to this day the distinction that
has been given to it as one of the finest spots on earth. It stands
close under the shadow of the huge mountains that shield it from the
northern blast, and it is at the same time protected from the extreme
heat of the tropics by its elevation of 3000 feet. The immense church
edifices here proclaim the munificence of Cortez, while the garden of
Laborde, open to the world, shows with what elegant taste he squandered
his three several fortunes accumulated in mining. The combination of a
fine day in a voluptuous climate, the beautiful scenery, and the happy
faces of the people celebrating New Year's day in the shade of the
orange-trees, made an impression upon a traveler not easily forgotten.

I was too near the city of Mexico to remain long here, and I rode on,
up the zigzag way that leads over the mountain rim of the Valley of
Mexico. I was not fortunate enough to accomplish the journey from city
to city in a single day, and, from necessity, had to pass the night at
the half-way house, upon the summit of the mountain, 10,000 feet above
the sea. A poor Hungarian, who had been detained here like myself, came
and laid his blankets with mine, and then we lay down, and chattered
and shivered together until the morning. Such a night as this detracts
somewhat from the enjoyments of this otherwise pleasant journey; but
when I got a morning view of the valley and city of Mexico from the
Cross of the "Marquis of the Valley," the sufferings of the chilly
night were soon forgotten.

CHAPTER XIII.

California.--Pearl Fisheries.--Missions.--Indian
Marriages.--Villages.--Precious Metals.--The Conquest of
California compared with that of Mexico.--Upper California
under the Spaniards.--Mexican Conquest of California in 1825.--The
March.--The Conquest.--California und