hurch was a glass case containing a coffin of
regulation size, the wax figure within being covered with a black
shroud so that a bare arm only was visible. Across the soft white
flesh, for it was a woman's arm, ran a hideously realistic burn,
suggesting that the figure might have been that of some Christian
martyr, the probable patron saint of Cagayan. Before the principal
altar stood quaint prayer stools of ebony carved to resemble kneeling
human figures, and in the loft was a very good organ, though somewhat
high-pitched and reedy in tone.

The native women of Cagayan were rather more progressive than those
in the towns we had just visited. Some of them even wore hats,
and straightway copied, or rather, tried to copy, those worn by
the cable-ship contingent. They also rode bicycles, looking most
incongruous awheel, the long, spade shaped train to their skirts
tucked out of the way, their wide _camisa_ sleeves standing out like
stiff sails on either side, their demure and modest little kerchiefs
swelling with the quick throbbing of their adventurous hearts. We
were told that one of these women, after seeing the quartermaster's
wife riding a bicycle in her very short and modish skirt, straightway
took two deep tucks in her own long _saya_, train and all. Verily,
the spirit of that Filipina in an American would have emboldened her
to wear--bloomers? Perish the thought--knickerbockers!

At the time of our first visit to Cagayan, the principal occupation of
the American troops there seemed to be chasing two bands of insurrectos
under the respective leadership of one Capistrano and one Vajez, most
wily game, that led them many a weary tramp over the mountainous hills
surrounding the town. Shortly after our arrival Vajez was captured,
and a milder-mannered man never laid traps of spears and forked bamboo
in the pathway of an enemy. He was the personification of gentleness
and confided to the American officer in command that he would long
since have taken the oath of allegiance had not circumstances, over
which he had no control, prevented. The general, greatly impressed
by the cogency of these remarks from a man brought in by force, sent
him to Manila by the first available transport, that he might spread
the light to his brethren there, after which he was doubtless given
opportunity for more proselyting work in Guam.

Capistrano was made of sterner stuff, and on our numerous visits
to Cagayan still roamed the mountains w