hog is usually cut, there will
be left as offal the chine or backbone, the jowl, the souse, the liver and
lungs, pig's feet, two spareribs and two short ribs or griskins. Nearly
every housekeeper knows what disposition to make of all this, yet too
often these wholesome portions of the hog are not utilized to best
advantage.
PORK SAUSAGE.
Sausage has formed a highly prized article of food for a good many hundred
years. Formed primarily as now, by chopping the raw meat very fine, and
adding salt and other flavoring materials, and often meal or bread crumbs,
the favorite varieties of to-day might not be considered any improvement
over the recipes of the ancient Romans were they to pass judgment on the
same. History tells us that these early Italian sausages were made of
fresh pork and bacon, chopped fine, with the addition of nuts, and
flavored with cumin seed, pepper, bay leaves and various pot herbs. Italy
and Germany are still celebrated for their bologna sausages and with many
people these smoked varieties are highly prized.
Like pure lard, sausage is too often a scarce article in the market. Most
city butchers mix a good deal of beef with the pork, before it is ground,
and so have a sausage composed of two sorts of meat, which does not
possess that agreeable, sweet, savory taste peculiar to nice fresh pork.
The bits of lean, cut off when trimming the pieces of neat meat, the
tenderloins, and slices of lean from the shoulders and hams, together with
some fat, are first washed nicely, cleared of bone and scraps of skin,
then put into the chopper, and ground fine. If a great deal of sausage is
wanted, the neat meat is trimmed very close, so as to take all the lean
that can be spared from the pieces. Sometimes whole shoulders are cut up
and ground. The heads, too, or the fleshy part, make good sausage. Some
housekeepers have the livers and "lights," or lungs, ground up and
prepared for sausage, and they make a tolerable substitute. This
preparation should be kept separate from the other, however, and be eaten
while cold weather lasts, as it will not keep as long as the other kind.
After sausage is properly ground, add salt, sage, rosemary, and red or
black pepper to suit the taste. The rosemary may be omitted, but sage is
essential. All these articles should be made fine before mixing them with
the meat. In order to determine accurately whether the sausage contains
enough of these ingredients, cook a little and
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