ake fat, the two leaves of almost solid
fat that grow just above the hams on either side about the kidneys, and
the choice pieces of fat meat cut off in trimming the pork should be tried
or rendered first and separate from the remainder. This fat is the best
and makes what is called the leaf lard. It may be put in the bottom of the
cans, for use in summer, or else into separate jars or cans, and set away
in a cool place. The entrail fat and bits of fat meat are cooked last and
put on top of the other, or into separate vessels, to be used during cool
weather. This lard is never as good as the other, and will not keep sweet
as long; hence the pains taken by careful housewives to keep the two sorts
apart. It must be admitted, however, that many persons, when refining lard
for market, do not make any distinction, but lump all together, both in
cooking and afterward. But for pure, honest "leaf" lard not a bit of
entrail fat should be mixed with the flakes.

A PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT POINT

in making lard is to take plenty of time. The cooking must not be hurried
in the least. It requires time to thoroughly dry out all the water, and
the keeping quality of the lard depends largely upon this. A slow fire of
coals only should be placed under the kettle, and great care exercised
that no spark snaps into it, to set fire to the hot oil. It is well to
have at hand some close-fitting covers, to be put immediately over the
kettle, closing it tightly in case the oil should take fire. The mere
exclusion of air will put out the fire at once. Cook slowly in order not
to burn any of the fat in the least, as that will impart a very
unpleasant flavor to the lard. The attendants should stir well with a long
ladle or wooden stick during the whole time of cooking. It requires
several hours to thoroughly cook a vessel of lard, when the cracknels will
eventually rise to the top.

A cool, dry room, such as a basement, is the best place for keeping lard.
Large stone jars are perhaps the best vessels to keep it in, but tins are
cheaper, and wooden casks, made of oak, are very good. Any pine wood,
cedar or cypress will impart a taste of the wood. The vessels must be kept
closed, to exclude litter, and care should be observed to prevent ants,
mice, etc., from getting to the lard. A secret in keeping lard firm and
good in hot weather is first to cook it well, and then set it in a cool,
dry cellar, where the temperature remains fairly uniform through