or, better still, of broth, and let it boil gently five or
six hours. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on
top of the liquid.

The meat can be used afterward for meat balls or =Croquettes=. The stock
may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes.

14

ANCHOVY SAUCE

(Salsa d'Acciughe)

This recipe does not call for the filets of anchovies prepared for =hors
d'oeuvre=, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to
be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. Wash them thoroughly in plenty
of water. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for
use.

Put five or six anchovies into a colander and dip quickly into boiling
water to loosen the skins, remove the salt, skin and bone them. Chop
them and put over the fire in a saucepan with a generous quantity of oil
and some pepper. Do not let them boil, but when they are hot add two
tablespoons of butter and three or four tablespoons of concentrated
tomato juice made by cooking down canned tomatoes and rubbing through a
sieve. When this sauce is used to season spaghetti, these must be boiled
in water that is only slightly salted and care must be taken not to let
them become too soft. The quantities above mentioned ought to be
sufficient for about one pound of spaghetti.

15

SPAGHETTI OR MACARONI WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE

(Pasta al burro e formaggio)

This is the simplest form in which the spaghetti may be served, and it
is generally reserved for the thickest paste. The spaghetti are to be
boiled until tender in salted water, taking care to remove them when
tender, and not cooked until they lose form. They should not be put into
the water until this is at a boiling point.

Take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be
served. Break into pieces two and a half to three inches long if you so
desire. The Italians leave them unbroken, but their skill in turning
them around the fork and eating them =is not the privilege of
everybody=. Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil twelve
to fifteen minutes, or until the macaroni is perfectly soft. Stir
frequently to prevent the macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn it
into a colander to drain; then put it into a pudding-dish with a
generous quantity of butter and grated cheese. If more cheese is liked,
it can be brought to the table so that the guests can help themselves to
it.

The macaroni called "Mezzani" which is